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Free kids crochet sweater pattern: Snowy Owl pocket pullover

This free kids crochet sweater pattern is perfect for boys and girls, with sizes to fit ages 2–12. Designed for a quick, easy make, it uses a simple stitch and top-down raglan construction, making it easy to customize for a perfect fit. Whether you’re crafting crochet gifts for kids or building a handmade wardrobe, this kids crochet pullover is a delightful project for all skill levels.The sweater features an adorable owl pocket, created separately and sewn on—ideal for little collectors who love to gather treasures like acorns, conkers, and pebbles on woodland walks.

The design is inspired by nature: the sweater itself is in dark blue and white, evoking gentle snowfall in an evening sky just after dusk, while the owl pocket is in shades of white and grey, resembling a snowy owl. Customize your sweater to match your child’s personality! Try shades of green and brown for a barn owl against autumn leaves, or go fantasy-inspired with bright rainbow colors. This crochet sweater pattern for kids is as versatile as it is cozy.

Snowy owl free kids crochet sweater pattern by Ciara Doyle

Blue and white pull9ver with an owl pocket

This pattern is available as a PDF download on Ravelry. As part of the Giftstraviganza blog hop, the PDF is available for free until the 20th November, with coupon code: Snowy

Sizes

Sizes are based on chest measurements and increase in 7.5 cm / 3 inch increments.- For growing kids, always choose the larger size if your child is between sizes.- Designed to be worn with at least 10 cm / 4 inches of positive ease.

Size A– To fit chest: 53 cm / 21 inches.
Actual size: 63.5 cm / 25 inches
Approximate age: 2–4 years

Size B- To fit chest: 61 cm / 24 inches
-Actual size: 71 cm / 28 inches
Approximate age: 5–7 years

Size C- To fit chest: 68.5 cm / 27 inches
Actual size: 78.5 cm / 31 inches
Approximate age: 8–10 years

Size D– To fit chest: 76 cm / 30 inches
Actual size: 86.5 cm / 34 inches
Approximate age: 10–12 years

Yarn and Materials

Yarn Required
Drops Nepal, 65% wool, 35% alpaca, worsted weight, yarn group C (medium), 75 meters / 82 yards per 50g ball.

Blue (main colour): 3 (4, 5, 6) balls, 225 (300, 375, 450) meters White (contrast colour): 2 (2, 3, 3) balls, 150 (150, 225, 225) meters

Additionally, for owl pocket: Half ball (30 meters) grey Small scraps of orange

Hook size: 5 mm crochet hook, or as required to match gauge.

Notions:
Darning needle (for weaving in ends and sewing pocket in place)
5 stitch markers
optional: tiny button (shirt button size) for closing pocket

Construction

Work in progress of short rows and upper raglan for the Snowy owl kids crochet sweater pattern by Ciara Doyle


The kids crochet sweater pattern is worked top-down, in the round, with raglan sleeves. The pocket is worked separately and sewn on afterwards.

Work in progress for Snowy owl kids free crochet sweater pattern by Ciara Doyle

Tension/Gauge

6 pattern repeats = 10 cm / 4 inches
Tension should be checked in the round, and may be easiest to check by working the first 4 repeats after the neckline

Kids Crochet Sweater Pattern – UK crochet terms

US terms below

UK crochet terms used

Bptr – back post treble crochet
CC – contrast colour
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Fptr – front post treble crochet
Htr – half treble crochet
Htr shell – 3 htr stitches in the same space
Inc shell – increase shell (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr)
M – (stitch) marker
Mc – main colour
Pm – place (stitch) marker
Rnd – round
Shell – 3 treble crochet in the same space
Sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch
Sp(s) – space(s)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tr – treble crochet
Trn ch – turning chain

Neck

Set up: In CC, ch 60 (66, 66, 72), join with sl st to work in the round.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as stitch here, and throughout), tr to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 60 (66, 66, 72) tr

Rnd 2: Ch 3, [fptr, bptr] to last st, fptr. Join with sl st to trn ch.

Rnd 3: [Ch 3, sk 2, dc in next] to end.
Stitch count: 20 (22, 22, 24) ch-3 sps
(Note: On this rnd, ch-3 sps are worked to preserve the stretchiness of the neckband. All future rnds will use a ch-2 sp.)

Fit Check

Neckband sizes are based on head circumference. Kids’ head sizes can vary a lot, so it’s always good to check. As there is no opening in this neckband, it needs to pull easily over the head without catching little ears, but still sit neatly and cosily around the neck.

The pattern is written so you can follow one neckband size and then switch to a different size for the rest of the sweater without difficulty. I recommend checking the fit now, if possible, before proceeding further.

Short Rows

Short rows shape the neckline, bringing the front lower than the back, for best fit.

Set up: Place marker (pm) in first ch-3 sp after sl st join, sk 3 (4, 4, 4) ch-3 sps, pm, sk 5 (5, 5, 6), pm in next, sk 3 (4, 4, 4), pm.
You now have 4 markers placed, separating 3 (4, 4, 4) sps for each sleeve top and 5 (5, 5, 6) sps for front and back neck, with 4 spaces between to mark the corner increases.
Identify the front neck section (the section with 5 (5, 5, 6) sps between markers that does not have the beginning/end-of-round tail).
Place an additional distinctive stitch marker in the middle of the front neck section and keep it there in the neckband throughout to help easily identify which section you are working on.

Short Row 1: In MC, starting in the last ch-3 sp of the front neck section, join MC with sl st, ch 2, htr 2 in same sp (htr shell made), in marked ch sp, [2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr] (inc shell made). PM in ch-1 sp in the center of the increase shell.
[Shell to next marked sp. Inc shell in marked sp, move up M] twice, htr shell in first sp of front neck.
Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 3 (3, 3, 4) spaces unworked, 2 htr shells for front, 5 (5, 5, 6) shells for back, 3 (4, 4, 4) shells for each sleeve, and 4 increase shells.

Short Row 2: Join CC with sl st to dc of neckband and 1st st of htr shell together. Dc, ch 2. [Dc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Sl st into top of last htr of htr shell and dc of row 1 together. Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 3 (3, 3, 4) spaces unworked and 21 (23, 23, 24) ch-2 sps worked.

Short Row 3: In the last skipped sp of the front neck, join MC with sl st and ch 2, 2 htr. Htr shell in next sp, *[inc shell in sp before and after M, move marker up to sit between 2 inc shells. Shell to sp before M]* three times in total, inc shell twice, htr shell in last sp, htr shell in first skipped sp of neckband. Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 1 (1, 1, 2) spaces unworked, 4 htr shells for front, 5 (5, 5, 6) shells for back, 3 (4, 4, 4) shells for each sleeve, and 8 increase shells.

Repeat Short Row 2.
Stitch count check: 1 (1, 1, 2) spaces unworked and 31 (33, 33, 34) ch-2 sps worked.

Upper Raglan Rounds

Round 1: In MC, return to the original beginning of the round and identify the marker for the start of the back neck. In the ch-2 sp after the marker, join with sl st, ch 2, 2 dc.
[Shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 2 sps (before and after M)], move marker up to sit between the 2 inc shells.
Shell 2, htr shell across the front (including sps before gap, gap, and sps after gap), shell 2.
[Inc shell before and after M, shell to sp before next M] twice, inc shell in final sp, join with sl st.
Stitch counts: 8 inc shells, plus 24 (26, 26, 28) shells.
Each sleeve top = 5 (6, 6, 6)
Front and back = 7 (7, 7, 8)

Round 2: Join CC with sl st, [dc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 32 (34, 34, 36) ch-2 sps.

Round 3: In MC, inc shell, [shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 2 sps (before and after M)] 3 times, shell to last sp, inc shell, and join with sl st.
Stitch count:
8 inc shells and 32 (34, 34, 36) shells.
Each sleeve top = 7 (8, 8, 8)
Front and back = 9 (9, 9, 10)

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 another 1 (1, 2, 3) times.

Stitch count at end of upper raglan: 8 inc shells.
Total shells for each sleeve section: 9 (10, 12, 14)
Total shells for front/back sections: 11 (11, 13, 16)

Fit Check
This section of the raglan has been increasing both the sleeve and body. The sleeve section is now wide enough. In the next section, only the body will be increased.
Check that the sleeve section fits neatly around the child’s upper arm. Positive ease will be added with an underarm chain later, so it doesn’t need to be loose, but it should fit comfortably without stretching.

For a wider arm: Add more upper raglan rounds. For a narrower arm: Reduce the number of upper raglan rounds.

Mid Raglan

In the mid raglan, 4 increase shells are placed per round, on the body side of the stitch marker only. Continue to move the marker up each round, marking the separation between sleeve and body.

Round 1: In CC, [dc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 48 (50, 58, 68) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: In MC, inc shell, *[shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 1 sp (before M), shell to next M]* 2 times, shell to last sp, inc shell, and join with sl st.
Stitch count: 4 inc shells (on body side of marker) and 44 (46, 54, 64) shells.
Each sleeve section = 11 (12, 14, 16) shells
Each body section = 11 (11, 13, 16)

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 another 1 (2, 2, 2) times.
Stitch count at end of mid raglan: 4 inc shells and 48 (54, 62, 72) shells.
Each sleeve section = 11 (12, 14, 16) shells
Each body section = 13 (15, 17, 20)

Fit Check
The front and back body sections should now be wide enough. 7 cm / 2¾ inches of positive ease will be added with the underarm chain, but there should already be a slight amount of positive ease created.
In other words, the front section should fit loosely across the widest part of the child’s body (which might be the chest or tummy, depending on the child).
For a wider body: Add more repeats of the mid raglan section.

Lower Raglan

The lower raglan adds depth to the armhole without increasing. All sizes work these 2 rounds once. For a shallower armhole: Omit this section. For a deeper armhole: Add further repeats of the 2 rounds.

Round 1: In CC, [dc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 52 (58, 66, 76) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: In MC, shell in each sp to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 52 (58, 66, 76) shells.

Body

Now it gets easier! The sleeves are now separated from the body and left for later. The body is worked in simple rounds.

Set up: In CC, *ch 6, sk all shells to M, [dc in sp after M, ch 2] to M, repeat from *, join with sl st.

Round 1: *[(Tr 3, ch 1, tr 3) in ch-6 sp, shell to ch-6 sp], repeat from *, join with sl st.

Round 2: [Dc, ch 2, sk shell] to end, treating the underarm sps of (3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr) as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 52) shells

Round 3: Shell in each ch-2 sp to end, join with sl st.

Round 4: [Dc, ch 2, sk shell] to end.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 9, 11) times, or for desired length, ending on a Round 3.

Hem

Round 1: In CC, tr into each tr to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 114 (126, 138, 156) tr

Round 2: [Fptr, bptr] to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Round 2 once more, or for desired hem length.

Sleeves

Round 1: With CC, join yarn with sl st in the center of the underarm ch-6 sp (3 tr stitches from the first body round will be on each side). [Dc, ch 2, sk shell] to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 13 (14, 16, 18) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: With MC, shell in each ch-2 sp to end, join with sl st.

Round 3: With CC, *[dc between shells, ch 2, sk shell]* to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 another 1 (2, 3, 4) times.

Decrease Rounds

Decrease Round 1: With MC, ch 3, tr (narrow shell worked), shell in each ch-2 sp to last sp, 2 tr in last sp, join with sl st.

Decrease Round 2: With CC, dc between shells, ch 1, [dc between shells, ch 2] to last sp, dc, ch 1, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) ch-2 sps and 2 ch-1 sps.

Decrease Round 3: With MC, ch 3, tr, shell in each ch-2 sp to last sp, tr, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) shells and 2 tr.

Decrease Round 4:
With CC, dc behind last tr, ch 2, sk tr, trn ch and tr, dc in sp, [ch 2, sk shell, dc] to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) ch-2 sps.

Repeat Decrease Rounds 1–4 once more.
Stitch count: 10 (11, 13, 15) ch-2 sps.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 (rounds without decreases) 2 (3, 4, 5) times, or as desired for length.

Cuff

Round 1: [Tr 4, tr2tog] to end, join with sl st.

Round 2: [Fptr, bptr] to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Round 2 once more, or for desired cuff length.

Part 2: Owl Pocket

Special Stitches: Loop st (Loop stitch): Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull through. Remove loop from hook, and pull down so it is the length of 2 previous rows. Holding loop under thumb, insert hook in the same stitch again, and work a double crochet as normal (dc). Spike stitch: Insert hook in the row indicated below the active row, pull yarn up so it is level with the active row, and work a double crochet (dc).

Owl body

Set Up: In white, ch 3.

Round 1: 9 htr in the last ch from hook, join with sl st. Stitch count: 10 sts, counting starting ch

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 htr in each st, join with sl st. Stitch count: 20 htr

Round 3: Dc to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 20 dc

Round 4: Ch 2, [htr in next st, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 30 htr

Round 5: Dc to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 30 dc

Round 6: Ch 2, [htr in next 2 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 40 htr

Round 7: in grey, [dc, loop st] to end, join with sl st.

Size A only: Fasten off and disconnect. Proceed to Head.

All other sizes, continue.

Sizes B, C and D:

Round 8: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 3 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. (50 htr)

Round 9: In white, [dc, loop st] to end, join with sl st.

Round 10: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 4 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 60 htr

Round 11: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Size B only: Fasten off and disconnect. Proceed to Head. Sizes C and D: Continue.

Round 12: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 5 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 70 htr

Round 13: In white, repeat Round 9.

Round 14: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 6 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. (80 htr)

Round 15: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Size C: Fasten off and disconnect, Proceed to Head. Size D: Continue.

Round 16: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 7 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 90 htr

Round 17: In white, repeat Round 9.

Round 18: In white, ch 2, [htr in next 8 sts, 2 htr in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 100 htr.

Round 19: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Fasten off and disconnect.

Owl Head Pattern

Work in white

Set Up: Ch 3.

Rounds 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18: Work as for the Owl Body pattern (follow the same stitch counts and increases).

Rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17: Dc to end, join with sl st.

Size-Specific Instructions
Size A:
Work to Round 7, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size B: Work to Round 11, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size C: Work to Round 15, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size D: Work to Round 19, then fasten off and disconnect.

Edging Rounds

Joining Head to Body
Lay body on top of head, so that the top of the body is touching the center of the head. Use markers to pin together the body and the head in this position.

Place a marker at the top of the head (identify center stitch).

Starting at the right-hand side, at the top of the body and bottom of the head (as shown in your reference): – Dc up the side of the head to the stitch before the marker.

– Work spike stitches as follows: – Spike st in the row below. – Spike st in 2 rows below. – Spike st in 3 rows below. – Spike st in 2 rows below. – Spike st in 1 row below. – Sk only 1 st behind sp sts (4 increases made) – Dc to the marker which is holding the head to the body** on the left side. – Dc the head and body together. – Dc each stitch around the body. – Join with sl st.

Ears

7 stitches before the start of the spike stitches, join white with sl st. Dc, htr, tr, [dtr, ch 4 pico, dtr] in the next stitch, Tr, htr, dc, Dc in the next 5 stitches of the spike stitches, Dc, htr, tr, [dtr, ch 4 pico, dtr]** in the same space. Tr, htr, dc. Fasten off and disconnect.

Eyes (Make 2, Both Alike)

Set Up: In blue Ch 2.

Round 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, dc 12. Join with sl st. Stitch count: 12 dc

Round 2: In grey, [dc, 2 dc in next] to end. Join with sl st. Stitch count: 18 dc

Assembly

Sew the eyes to the head. To achieve a more 3 dimentional appearance, use blue yarn, and sew through round 1, allowing round 2 grey section to cup forward slightly.

Sew the owl head to the sweater, from the start of one ear to the end of the other.

Sew the underside of the head (below the body) to the sweater

Sew the body to the sweater.

Using orange yarn, sew 3 strands to the top of the body to create a beak.

Optional: Sew a tiny short button behind the beak, and use it to fasten the pocket closed, by using the central hole of the head as a buttonhole

The pocket is now sewn to the sweater. It has 3 openings: Between the head and body open to the bottom of the pocket, and the lower sides of each head open to the top of the pocket. Plenty of little secret spaces for gathering acorns!

Kids Crochet Sweater Pattern – US crochet terms

US crochet terms used – UK terms above

Bpdc – back post double crochet
CC – contrast colour
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Fpdc – front post double crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc shell – 3 hdc stitches in the same space
Inc shell – increase shell (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr)
M – (stitch) marker
Mc – main colour
Pm – place (stitch) marker
Rnd – round
Sc – single crochet
Shell – 3 double crochet in the same space
Sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch
Sp(s) – space(s)
St(s) – stitch(es)
Tr – treble crochet
Trn ch – turning chain

Neck

Set up: In CC, ch 60 (66, 66, 72), join with sl st to work in the round.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as stitch here, and throughout), dc to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 60 (66, 66, 72) dc

Rnd 2: Ch 3, [fpdc, bpdc] to last st, fpdc. Join with sl st to trn ch.

Rnd 3: [Ch 3, sk 2, sc in next] to end.
Stitch count: 20 (22, 22, 24) ch-3 sps
(Note: On this rnd, ch-3 sps are worked to preserve the stretchiness of the neckband. All future rnds will use a ch-2 sp.)

Fit Check

Neckband sizes are based on head circumference. Kids’ head sizes can vary a lot, so it’s always good to check. As there is no opening in this neckband, it needs to pull easily over the head without catching little ears, but still sit neatly and cosily around the neck.

The pattern is written so you can follow one neckband size and then switch to a different size for the rest of the sweater without difficulty. I recommend checking the fit now, if possible, before proceeding further.

Short Rows

Short rows shape the neckline, bringing the front lower than the back, for best fit.

Set up: Place marker (pm) in first ch-3 sp after sl st join, sk 3 (4, 4, 4) ch-3 sps, pm, sk 5 (5, 5, 6), pm in next, sk 3 (4, 4, 4), pm. You now have 4 markers placed, separating 3 (4, 4, 4) sps for each sleeve top and 5 (5, 5, 6) sps for front and back neck, with 4 spaces between to mark the corner increases. Identify the front neck section (the section with 5 (5, 5, 6) sps between markers that does not have the beginning/end-of-round tail). Place an additional distinctive stitch marker in the middle of the front neck section and keep it there in the neckband throughout to help easily identify which section you are working on.

Short Row 1: In MC, starting in the last ch-3 sp of the front neck section, join MC with sl st, ch 2, hdc 2 in same sp (hdc shell made), in marked ch sp, [2 tdc ch 1, 2 dc] (inc shell made). PM in ch-1 sp in the center of the increase shell.
[Shell to next marked sp. Inc shell in marked sp, move up M] twice, hdc shell in first sp of front neck.
Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 3 (3, 3, 4) spaces unworked, 2 hdc shells for front, 5 (5, 5, 6) shells for back, 3 (4, 4, 4) shells for each sleeve, and 4 increase shells.

Short Row 2: Join CC with sl st to dc of neckband and 1st st of hdc shell together. Sc, ch 2. [Sc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Sl st into top of last hdc of hdc shell and sc of row 1 together. Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 3 (3, 3, 4) spaces unworked and 21 (23, 23, 24) ch-2 sps worked.

Short Row 3: In the last skipped sp of the front neck, join MC with sl st and ch 2, 2 hdc. Hdc shell in next sp, *[inc shell in sp before and after M, move marker up to sit between 2 inc shells. Shell to sp before M]* three times in total, inc shell twice, hdc shell in last sp, hdc shell in first skipped sp of neckband. Fasten off and disconnect.
Stitch count check: 1 (1, 1, 2) spaces unworked, 4 hdc shells for front, 5 (5, 5, 6) shells for back, 3 (4, 4, 4) shells for each sleeve, and 8 increase shells.

Repeat Short Row 2.
Stitch count check: 1 (1, 1, 2) spaces unworked and 31 (33, 33, 34) ch-2 sps worked.

Upper Raglan Rounds

Round 1: In MC, return to the original beginning of the round and identify the marker for the start of the back neck. In the ch-2 sp after the marker, join with sl st, ch 2, 2 dc.
[Shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 2 sps (before and after M)], move marker up to sit between the 2 inc shells.
Shell 2, hdc shell across the front (including sps before gap, gap, and sps after gap), shell 2.
[Inc shell before and after M, shell to sp before next M] twice, inc shell in final sp, join with sl st.
Stitch counts: 8 inc shells, plus 24 (26, 26, 28) shells.
Each sleeve top = 5 (6, 6, 6)
Front and back = 7 (7, 7, 8)

Round 2: Join CC with sl st, [sc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 32 (34, 34, 36) ch-2 sps.

Round 3: In MC, inc shell, [shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 2 sps (before and after M)] 3 times, shell to last sp, inc shell, and join with sl st.
Stitch count: 8 inc shells and 32 (34, 34, 36) shells.
Each sleeve top = 7 (8, 8, 8)
Front and back = 9 (9, 9, 10)

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 another 1 (1, 2, 3) times.

Stitch count at end of upper raglan: 8 inc shells. Total shells for each sleeve section: 9 (10, 12, 14) Total shells for front/back sections: 11 (11, 13, 16)

Fit Check

This section of the raglan has been increasing both the sleeve and body. The sleeve section is now wide enough. In the next section, only the body will be increased.
Check that the sleeve section fits neatly around the child’s upper arm. Positive ease will be added with an underarm chain later, so it doesn’t need to be loose, but it should fit comfortably without stretching.

For a wider arm: Add more upper raglan rounds. For a narrower arm: Reduce the number of upper raglan rounds.

Mid Raglan

In the mid raglan, 4 increase shells are placed per round, on the body side of the stitch marker only. Continue to move the marker up each round, marking the separation between sleeve and body.

Round 1: In CC, [sc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 48 (50, 58, 68) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: In MC, inc shell, *[shell to sp before next M, inc shell into next 1 sp (before M), shell to next M]* 2 times, shell to last sp, inc shell, and join with sl st.
Stitch count: 4 inc shells (on body side of marker) and 44 (46, 54, 64) shells.
Each sleeve section = 11 (12, 14, 16) shells
Each body section = 11 (11, 13, 16)

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 another 1 (2, 2, 2) times.
Stitch count at end of mid raglan: 4 inc shells and 48 (54, 62, 72) shells.
Each sleeve section = 11 (12, 14, 16) shells
Each body section = 13 (15, 17, 20)

Fit Check

The front and back body sections should now be wide enough. 7 cm / 2¾ inches of positive ease will be added with the underarm chain, but there should already be a slight amount of positive ease created.
In other words, the front section should fit loosely across the widest part of the child’s body (which might be the chest or tummy, depending on the child).
For a wider body: Add more repeats of the mid raglan section.

Lower Raglan

The lower raglan adds depth to the armhole without increasing. All sizes work these 2 rounds once. For a shallower armhole: Omit this section. For a deeper armhole: Add further repeats of the 2 rounds.

Round 1: In CC, [sc between shells, ch 2] to end, treating all inc shells as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 52 (58, 66, 76) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: In MC, shell in each sp to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 52 (58, 66, 76) shells.

Body

Now it gets easier! The sleeves are now separated from the body and left for later. The body is worked in simple easy rounds.

Set up: In CC, *ch 6, sk all shells to M, [sc in sp after M, ch 2] to M, repeat from *, join with sl st.

Round 1: *[(Tr 3, ch 1, tr 3) in ch-6 sp, shell to ch-6 sp], repeat from *, join with sl st.

Round 2: [Dc, ch 2, sk shell] to end, treating the underarm sps of (3 tr, ch 1, 3 tr) as 2 separate shells. Join with sl st.
Stitch count: 38 (42, 46, 52) shells

Round 3: Shell in each ch-2 sp to end, join with sl st.

Round 4: [Dc, ch 2, sk shell] to end.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 9, 11) times, or for desired length, ending on a Round 3.

Hem

Round 1: In CC, dc into each dc to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 114 (126, 138, 156) tr

Round 2: [Fpdc, bpdc] to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Round 2 once more, or for desired hem length.

Sleeves

Round 1: With CC, join yarn with sl st in the center of the underarm ch-6 sp (3 dc stitches from the first body round will be on each side). [sc, ch 2, sk shell] to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 13 (14, 16, 18) ch-2 sps.

Round 2: With MC, shell in each ch-2 sp to end, join with sl st.

Round 3: With CC, [sc between shells, ch 2, sk shell] to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 another 1 (2, 3, 4) times.

Decrease Rounds

Decrease Round 1: With MC, ch 3, dc (narrow shell worked), shell in each ch-2 sp to last sp, 2 dc in last sp, join with sl st.

Decrease Round 2: With CC, sc between shells, ch 1, [sc between shells, ch 2] to last sp, sc, ch 1, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) ch-2 sps and 2 ch-1 sps.

Decrease Round 3: With MC, ch 3, dc, shell in each ch-2 sp to last sp, dc, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) shells and 2 dc.

Decrease Round 4:
With CC, sc behind last dc, ch 2, sk dc, trn ch and dc, sc in sp, [ch 2, sk shell, sc] to end, join with sl st.
Stitch count: 11 (12, 14, 16) ch-2 sps.

Repeat Decrease Rounds 1–4 once more.
Stitch count: 10 (11, 13, 15) ch-2 sps.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 (rounds without decreases) 2 (3, 4, 5) times, or as desired for length.

Cuff

Round 1: [dc 4, dc2tog] to end, join with sl st.

Round 2: [Fpdc, bpdc] to end, join with sl st.

Repeat Round 2 once more, or for desired cuff length.

Part 2: Owl Pocket

Special Stitches:
Loop st (Loop stitch): Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull through. Remove loop from hook, and pull down so it is the length of 2 previous rows. Holding loop under thumb, insert hook in the same stitch again, and work a double crochet as normal (dc).
Spike stitch: Insert hook in the row indicated below the active row, pull yarn up so it is level with the active row, and work a double crochet (dc).

Owl body

Set Up: In white, ch 3.

Round 1: 9 hdc in the last ch from hook, join with sl st. Stitch count: 10 sts, counting starting ch

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st, join with sl st. Stitch count: 20 hdc

Round 3: Sc to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 20 sc

Round 4: Ch 2, [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 30 hdc

Round 5: Sc to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 30 sc

Round 6: Ch 2, [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 40 hdc

Round 7: in grey, [sc, loop st] to end, join with sl st.

Size A only: Fasten off and disconnect. Proceed to Head.

All other sizes, continue.

Sizes B, C and D:

Round 8: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. (50 hdc)

Round 9: In white, [sc, loop st] to end, join with sl st.

Round 10: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 60 hdc

Round 11: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Size B only: Fasten off and disconnect. Proceed to Head.


Sizes C and D: Continue.

Round 12: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 70 hdc

Round 13: In white, repeat Round 9.

Round 14: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. (80 hdc)

Round 15: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Size C: Fasten off and disconnect, Proceed to Head.
Size D: Continue.

Round 16: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 90 hdc

Round 17: In white, repeat Round 9.

Round 18: In white, ch 2, [hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next] to end, join with sl st. Stitch count: 100 hdc.

Round 19: In grey, repeat Round 9.

Fasten off and disconnect.

Owl Head Pattern

Work in white

Set Up: Ch 3.

Rounds 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18: Work as for the Owl Body pattern (follow the same stitch counts and increases).

Rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17: Sc to end, join with sl st.

Size-Specific Instructions
Size A: Work to Round 7, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size B: Work to Round 11, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size C: Work to Round 15, then fasten off and disconnect.
Size D: Work to Round 19, then fasten off and disconnect.

Edging Rounds

Joining Head to Body
Lay body on top of head, so that the top of the body is touching the center of the head. Use markers to pin together the body and the head in this position.

Place a marker at the top of the head (identify center stitch).

Starting at the right-hand side, at the top of the body and bottom of the head (as shown in your reference): – Dc up the side of the head to the stitch before the marker.

– Work spike stitches as follows: – Spike st in the row below. – Spike st in 2 rows below. – Spike st in 3 rows below. – Spike st in 2 rows below. – Spike st in 1 row below. – Sk only 1 st behind sp sts (4 increases made) – Dc to the marker which is holding the head to the body** on the left side. – Dc the head and body together. – Dc each stitch around the body. – Join with sl st.

Ears

7 stitches before the start of the spike stitches, join white with sl st. Dc, htr, tr, [dtr, ch 4 pico, dtr] in the next stitch, Tr, htr, dc, Dc in the next 5 stitches of the spike stitches, Dc, htr, tr, [dtr, ch 4 pico, dtr]** in the same space. Tr, htr, dc. Fasten off and disconnect.

Eyes (Make 2, Both Alike)

Set Up: In blue Ch 2.

Round 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, dc 12. Join with sl st. Stitch count: 12 dc

Round 2: In grey, [dc, 2 dc in next] to end. Join with sl st. Stitch count: 18 dc

Assembly

Sew the eyes to the head. To achieve a more 3 dimentional appearance, use blue yarn, and sew through round 1, allowing round 2 grey section to cup forward slightly.

Sew the owl head to the sweater, from the start of one ear to the end of the other.

Sew the underside of the head (below the body) to the sweater

Sew the body to the sweater.

Using orange yarn, sew 3 strands to the top of the body to create a beak.

Optional: Sew a tiny short button behind the beak, and use it to fasten the pocket closed, by using the central hole of the head as a buttonhole

The pocket is now sewn to the sweater. It has 3 openings: Between the head and body open to the bottom of the pocket, and the lower sides of each head open to the top of the pocket. Plenty of little secret spaces for gathering acorns!


Congratulations on finishing your kids crochet sweater pattern.


What colours did you use? I would love to see. Why not post to instagram, and tag @TheFairythorn,

What to make next:

Did you know, I have a FREE pattern for newsletter subscribers? Sign up here to get this henley pattern for men and women in 9 sizes sent straight to your inbox. https://dashboard.mailerlite.com/forms/89948/111964509637183470/share

Looking for a pattern for younger babies? Why not try the Alex Onesie?

Copyright:

This sweater pattern is for your personal enjoyment. This pattern is not for comercial purposes and may not be reproduced in any way. This includes selling the PDF, photocopying, scanning, creating video recordings of the instructions, selling of finished items on a commercial scale, or any other infringements. Sales of items made from this pattern are acceptable on a small scale, only when made by you personally, in your own home.

Designer Details: This pattern is written, published, sold and distributed by Ciara Doyle, Eircode C15Y5F9, Ireland.

Pattern Support: Email Ciara@TheFairythorn.ie

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2 Comments

  1. what time does the code expire. usually we have till about 8am est or 9am est the next . it is currently 524 est Nov Nov 21 Friday and I tried the code Snowy and says expired. was really hoping to get this one. oh well. guess I missed it.

    Thank you