This is a little onesie crochet pattern for intermediate crocheters, or adventurous beginners. You may also call it a body suit, or a short sleeved and short legged babygrow. It was orriginally published as part of the 2025 Sunflower Cottage Preemie Crochet Challange.

Are you looking for something for a boy, or a girl, or don’t know yet? This is a gender neutral style for both baby boys and girls, and fits from premature sizes, to age 2-3.

About the Alex onesie pattern

This little onesie buttons down the front and across the nappy-diaper to make dressing and undressing a small baby as easy as possible. I have designed it for soft, organic yarn, that is still machine washable, giving the best of all worlds.

Accessibility

The pattern is free here on my blog, or for more convenience, can be purchased as a downloadable PDF on Ravelry.

It comes in 3 formats, choose between ‘standard’, ‘large print’, and ‘screen reader’.
So there will be a PDF to suit all crocheters!

Sizes

This pattern comres in six sizes, to fit from a premature baby up to toddler sizes.

Finished measurement:
A: chest with 5 cm / 2 inch positive ease:
36 (41, 46, 51) [56, 61] cm
14 (16, 18, 20) [22, 24] inches

B: Length of body from folded flap to shoulder (adjustable) 26 (29, 30, 34) [38.5, 41] cm 10 ¼ (11 ¾, 12, 13 ¾) [15 ¼, 16 ¼] inches

Tension/gauge

23 stitches and 24 rows in 10cm / 4 inches squared with 5mm hook.

Matching gauge is important to get the correct size. Therefore, I also have a free stitch tutorial for moss stitch. The Afghan blocks from the moss stitch guide can be used as a gauge swatch for this project, and later become a cup coaster or part of a blanket. Yarn requirements given are sufficient to make the onesie, and one 6 inch square block from the stitch tutorial.

Skill level

Alex, the crochet onesie pattern is an intermediate level pattern, which might suit an adventurous beginner. It involves shaping, but only uses one simple stitch.

Crochet language

This pattern is written in English, with both U.K. and US versions available.

Yarn and Materials

Yarn used for sample: Rosarios 4, Belmonte, 50% organic wool, 50% organic cotton, DK, size 3, light, 125 meters / 136 yards per 50 gram ball.

2 colour version, with border worked in colour A, stripes worked in colours A and B
Colour A: 2 (2, 2, 2) [3, 3] balls / 250 (250, 250, 250) [375, 375] meters
Colour B: 1 (1, 2, 2) [2, 2] balls / 125 (125, 250, 250) [250, 250] meters

Substitute Yarn

Any DK weight yarn which matches gauge will work for this pattern. I chose the above yarn as it is organic and GOTS certified, so free from any harmful chemicals. It has the advantage of being machine washable. When choosing a substitute yarn look for something that will work for a busy parent juggling laundry with other tasks, while also thinking about baby’s sensitive skin, sticking to natural and GOTS certified yarns if possible.

Hooks

5mm crochet hook for main body, or size needed to match gauge.
4mm crochet hook for crotch band, or 1mm smaller than main body.

Notions

7 buttons, 15 mm / ½ inch diameter (2 for nappy flap, rest to evenly secure body)
Darning needle for weaving in ends.

Abbreviations and terminology – UK and US terms

The pattern comes in both U.K. and US crochet terms. Only 1 stitch used in tge pattern varies. In UK terms, the stitch is ‘dc’, in US terms it is ‘sc’. No other stitches with differing names are used.

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet (UK version only)

Dec – decrease

Inc – increase

Patt – pattern (as in, ‘continue in patt’ = continue working moss stitch as you have been doing)

M – (stitch) marker

Rep – repeat

Rnd – round

Sc – single crochet (US version only)

Sk – skip

Sl – slip

Sp – space

St(s) – stitch(es)

Tog – together

Uk Terms Pattern starts. For US terms, see below.

Section 1: Crotch

The crotch section will form a flap that will be folded up over the nappy / diaper. It starts with a button band. Increases are worked for the first half of the length, this will shape the leg holes at the front. After the halfway point the increases stop and it is worked straight. This forms the back part of the nappy flap.

Buttonhole band – using smaller hook

Set up: using colour A, ch 22 (24, 28, 30) [34, 36].

Row 1: dc into second ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 21 (23, 27, 29) [33, 35] dc

Row 2: dc across, ch 1 and turn.

Buttonhole row: dc 2, ch 2, sk 2, dc 13 (15, 19, 21) [25, 27], ch 2, sk 2, dc 2, ch 1 and turn.
2 ch2 buttonholes plus 17 (19, 23, 25) [29, 31] dc

Row 4: dc to ch 2 buttonhole, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, repeat to second buttonhole, dc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 21 (23, 26, 29) [32, 35] dc

Repeat row 2.

Crotch section part 2 – shaped with increases.

Change to larger hook.

Repeat rows 1 – 4 another 4 (5, 5, 6) [6, 7] times.
Stitch count: 41 (47, 51, 57) [61, 67]
Row count: 20 (24, 24, 28) [28, 32]
Stripe count: 10 (12, 12, 14) [14, 16] stripes

Tension / gauge check: striped section excluding button band is 10 (12, 12, 14) [16, 18] cm / 4 (4 3/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/2) [6 1/4 , 7] inches in length.

Crotch section part 3 – worked straight.

Row counts are adjustable for a deeper or shallower nappy cover, as long as you end on a row 4.

Increase row: in colour A, 2 dc in first st, [dc, sk 1, ch 1] to last st, 2 dc in last st. change colour, do not turn.
Stitch count: 43 (49, 53, 59) [63, 69] sts.

Main body. Section 2.

Row counts are adjustable for a longer or shorter body, as long as you end on a row 4.

Placing armholes:

Over the next 2 rows, increases are placed below the point where the work will separate for the armholes, to give the underarms a little more width

Set up: place stitch markers to indicate armhole position as follows:
Sk first 18 (22, 24, 28) [30, 32] stitches for front, place marker in next ch 1 sp (19th (23rd, 25th, 29th) [31st, 33rd] st). Repeat, counting in from other end.
You now have marked 19 (23, 25, 29) (31, 35) stitches for each front, separated by 41 (47, 51, 57), [63, 69] stitches for back.

Arm shaping row 1: in colour A [patt to M, dc, ch 1, dc in marked ch 1 sp, move up M] twice, patt to end.
Stitch count: 83 (97, 105, 119) [127, 137] sts – 4 sts inc

Repeat arm shaping row once more, draw up colour B, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 87 (101, 109, 123) [131, 141] sts – 4 sts inc.

Right front yoke. Section 3.

The right front is now worked on the stitches from the start of the row to the first marker only.

Total row count from armpit: 14 (14, 14, 16) (20, 22)
Stripes from armpit: 7 (7, 7, 8) (10, 11)
Tension / gauge check: armhole length 6 (6, 6, 6.5) [8.5, 9] cm / 2 ¼ (2 ¼, 2 ¼, 2 ¾) [3 ¼, 3 ¾] inches in length.

Shape Neckline

4. Back Section.

5. Left front section.

Work as for right front to neckline row 1, then work as follows

Shape Neckline

Fasten off and disconnect yarn.

6. Neckband.

7. Armhole bands. (Both alike)

8. Button bands.

Decide if you want the buttonholes to go on the right or left. Traditionally it’s buttonholes on the right and buttons on the left for a girl, the opposite for a boy or gender neutral garment. But you may also wish to think whether the main caretaker is right or left handed, and which will be easier for them.

Mark location of buttonholes with stitch markers evenly spaced on side for buttons.

To work left side:

Left side band starts at top neckband with right side facing, works down side of front, across base of front, and down side of crotch section to end of button band.
The second row works back up and row 3 works back down.

Row 1: join band colour at left top neck in top st of neckband, dc, ch 1, sk 1 row, dc into side of next row, [ch 1, sk 1, dc] into each stripe down left front, ch 1, sk 1, [dc , ch 2, dc] in corner stitch, ch 1, sk 1, [dc , ch 1, sk 1] into sts at base of front, dc, [ch 1, sk 1 row, dc into side of next row] down side of crotch to end, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to corner ch 2 sp, [dc , ch 1, dc] in ch 2 sp, [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to end, dc, ch 1 and turn.

Next row either:

Repeat row 2 if you wish buttonholes on right side, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

or

Buttonhole row: dc, ch 5, sk 1, * [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to next button placement, [dc , ch 5, sk 1], rep from * until all buttonholes are placed, continue as for row 2 to end, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

To work right side:

Right side band starts at button band at base of crotch, works up crotch, across base of front, up the side of front to top st of neckband.
The second row works down, and row 3 back up.

Row 1: join band colour at first stitch in crotch button band, dc, ch 1, sk 1 row, dc into side of next row, continue working ch 1, sk 1, dc into each stripe up side of crotch, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] into sts at base of front, [dc, ch 2, dc] in corner stitch, ch 1, sk 1 [dc , ch 1, sk 1], into stripe up right front to end of neckband, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to corner ch 2 sp, [dc , ch 1, dc] in ch 2 sp, [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to end, dc, ch 1 and turn.

Next row either:

Repeat row 2 if you wish buttonholes on left side, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

Or

Buttonhole row: work in patt up side of crotch and across base of front, [dc , ch 2, dc] in corner ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk 1, *dc, ch 5, [dc , ch 1, sk 1] to next buttonhole placement, rep from * to last 3 sts, dc, ch 5, sk 1, dc, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

Finishing:

Sew buttons in place corresponding to buttonholes. Weave in all ends.
Wash as intended for your yarn, using a gentle, baby safe non bio detergent.
Dry flat and pat into shape if needed. Work should not require any harsh blocking.

US terms Alex onesie pattern starts.

For UK terms, see above.

1. Crotch section

The crotch section will form a flap that will be folded up over the nappy / diaper. It starts with a button band. Increases are worked for the first half of the length, this will shape the leg holes at the front. After the halfway point the increases stop and it is worked straight. This forms the back part of the nappy flap.

Buttonhole band – using smaller hook

Set up: using colour A, ch 22 (24, 28, 30) [34, 36].

Row 1: sc into second ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 21 (23, 27, 29) [33, 35] sc

Row 2: sc across, ch 1 and turn.

Buttonhole row: sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 13 (15, 19, 21) [25, 27], ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, ch 1 and turn.
2 ch2 buttonholes plus 17 (19, 23, 25) [29, 31] sc

Row 4: sc to ch 2 buttonhole, 2 sc in ch 2 sp, repeat to second buttonhole, sc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 21 (23, 26, 29) [32, 35] sc

Repeat row 2.

Crotch section part 2 – shaped with increases.

Change to larger hook.

Repeat rows 1 – 4 another 4 (5, 5, 6) [6, 7] times.
Stitch count: 41 (47, 51, 57) [61, 67]
Row count: 20 (24, 24, 28) [28, 32]
Stripe count: 10 (12, 12, 14) [14, 16] stripes

Tension / gauge check: striped section excluding button band is 10 (12, 12, 14) [16, 18] cm / 4 (4 3/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/2) [6 1/4 , 7] inches in length.

Crotch section part 3 – worked straight.

Row counts are adjustable for a deeper or shallower nappy cover, as long as you end on a row 4.

Increase row: in colour A, 2 sc in first st, [sc, sk 1, ch 1] to last st, 2 sc in last st. change colour, do not turn.
Stitch count: 43 (49, 53, 59) [63, 69] sts.

Main body. Section 2.

Row counts are adjustable for a longer or shorter body, as long as you end on a row 4.

Placing armholes:

Over the next 2 rows, increases are placed below the point where the work will separate for the armholes, to give the underarms a little more width

Set up: place stitch markers to indicate armhole position as follows:
Sk first 18 (22, 24, 28) [30, 32] stitches for front, place marker in next ch 1 sp (19th (23rd, 25th, 29th) [31st, 33rd] st). Repeat, counting in from other end.
You now have marked 19 (23, 25, 29) (31, 35) stitches for each front, separated by 41 (47, 51, 57), [63, 69] stitches for back.

Arm shaping row 1: in colour A [patt to M, sc, ch 1, sc in marked ch 1 sp, move up M] twice, patt to end.
Stitch count: 83 (97, 105, 119) [127, 137] sts – 4 sts inc

Repeat arm shaping row once more, draw up colour B, ch 1 and turn.
Stitch count: 87 (101, 109, 123) [131, 141] sts – 4 sts inc.

Right front yoke. Section 3.

The right front is now worked on the stitches from the start of the row to the first marker only.

Total row count from armpit: 14 (14, 14, 16) (20, 22)
Stripes from armpit: 7 (7, 7, 8) (10, 11)
Tension / gauge check: armhole length 6 (6, 6, 6.5) [8.5, 9] cm / 2 ¼ (2 ¼, 2 ¼, 2 ¾) [3 ¼, 3 ¾] inches in length.

Shape Neckline

Fasten off and disconnect yarn.

4. Back Section.

5. Left front section.

Row 1: in colour B rejoin yarn in same marked ch 1 sp as last stitch of first row of back, [sc, sk 1, ch 1] to end, sc, ch 1 and turn. Stitch count: 21 (25, 27, 31) [33, 37] sts

Work as for right front to neckline row 1, then work as follows

Shape Neckline

Fasten off and disconnect yarn.

6. Neckband.

7. Armhole bands. (Both alike)

8. Button bands.

Decide if you want the buttonholes to go on the right or left. Traditionally it’s buttonholes on the right and buttons on the left for a girl, the opposite for a boy or gender neutral garment. But you may also wish to think whether the main caretaker is right or left handed, and which will be easier for them.

Mark location of buttonholes with stitch markers evenly spaced on side for buttons.

To work left side:

Row 1: join band colour at left top neck in top st of neckband, sc, ch 1, sk 1 row, sc into side of next row, [ch 1, sk 1, sc] into each stripe down left front, ch 1, sk 1, [sc , ch 2, sc] in corner stitch, ch 1, sk 1, [sc , ch 1, sk 1] into sts at base of front, dc, [ch 1, sk 1 row, sc into side of next row] down side of crotch to end, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: [sc , ch 1, sk 1] to corner ch 2 sp, [sc , ch 1, sc] in ch 2 sp, [sc , ch 1, sk 1] to end, sc, ch 1 and turn.

Next row either:

Repeat row 2 if you wish buttonholes on left side, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

Or

Buttonhole row: work in patt up side of crotch and across base of front, [sc , ch 2, sc] in corner ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk 1, *sc, ch 5, [sc , ch 1, sk 1] to next buttonhole placement, rep from * to last 3 sts, sc, ch 5, sk 1, sc, fasten off and disconnect yarn.

Finishing

Sew buttons in place corresponding to buttonholes. Weave in all ends.
Wash as intended for your yarn, using a gentle, baby safe non bio detergent.
Dry flat and pat into shape if needed. Work should not require any harsh blocking.

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Copyright.

This crochet pattern is written by Ciara Doyle of The Fairythorn and may not be distributed or sold in any format other than the original, including as text, or as a video instruction. It is for non-commercial use. You may sell items made from this pattern, on condition that they are made by you, personally, on a small scale.

Acknowledgements

This pattern has been tech edited by Louise Plumridge