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Beenoskee Ripple Stitch Crochet Mittens – Free Pattern for All Ages

The Beenoskee ripple stitch crochet mittens are perfect for all ages, from toddlers to adults! They are inspired by Beenoskee Mountain in Ireland, a name that means “peak above the wind”. These warm, textured mittens will keep you cozy on outdoor adventures, whatever the weather.

This free crochet pattern uses UK and US terms in a dyslexia-friendly, abbreviation-free style. Worked in DK yarn with a 4mm hook, the gently waving ripple stitch shines in two or more colours. Bundle up for winter walks or gift handmade love. These adjustable mittens come in four sizes for a perfect fit.

You can buy a downloadable PDF of this Beenoskee ripple stitch crochet mittens pattern in standard, abbreviation-free, and large-print formats, with both UK and US crochet terms to suit your preference. Or stay on the free blog post, and use the table of contents to jump to your preferred section!

The mittens have a matching Beenoskee cowl , and the hat will be released soon. Sign up for my newsletter so you don’t miss it.
Once you’ve mastered this pattern, why not explore my other crochet patterns for hats, scarves, and mitts? Try the Sugarloaf Mountain hat, mittens or cowl next.

Close-up of hands wearing green and white ripple stitch crochet mittens, part of the free Beenoskee crochet mitten pattern for all ages, designed by Ciara Doyle of The Fairythorn.

Frequently Asked Questions about the Beenoskee Ripple Stitch Crochet Mittens

  • Q: Can I make these mittens in different color stripes?
  • A: Yes! This pattern is a perfect stash buster. Use a different color for each contrast stripe to create unique, rainbow mittens and use up those yarn oddments
  • Q: Can I sell items made from this pattern?
  • A: Yes! You may sell handmade items from this pattern, provided they are made by you in your own home and sold on a small scale. Please credit Ciara Doyle/The Fairythorn as the designer.
  • Can I sell items made from this pattern?
  • A: Yes! You may sell handmade items from this pattern, provided they are made by you in your own home and sold on a small scale. Please credit Ciara Doyle/The Fairythorn as the designer.
  • Q: Is this pattern available in a large-print or abbreviation-free version?
  • A: Yes! This blog post uses an abbreviation-free format with UK and US terms. A large-print PDF is also available for purchase on Ravelry and Etsy
  • Q: How do I adjust the size?
  • A: The pattern includes four sizes (toddler to large adult). For a larger size, add extra stitches in multiples of 6 to maintain the ripple stitch pattern.

Ripple Stitch Mittens Sizes


The mittens pattern comes in sizes 1, 2, 3, 4.

These 4 sizes give an actual size (worn with 1 cm / 1/2 inch positive ease)



1: toddler 14 cm / 5 3/4 inch circumference,

2: child, 17 cm / 6 3/4 inch circumference,

3: teen, small adult, 20 cm / 8 inch circumference,

4: large adult, 23.5 cm / 9 1/4 inch circumference.

Materials

Any Double Knitting weight yarn

Hook: 4mm (US size G/6), larger hook, or size needed to match gauge.

Additionally, a 3.5mm, or size smaller than main hook

Notions: Stitch Markers, darning needle.

Construction:

The pattern is worked in the round, from the cuff to the fingertips. To begin, crochet the cuff, and then tge lower part of the hand. At that point, skip stitches and chain to create a thumb hole. First, you crochet the fingers, then afterwards return to the hole, and crochet the thumb.

Tension / gauge:


3 pattern repeats (18 stitches) = 4 inches
Row height: 8 pattern repeats (16 rows) = 4 inches

Image shows a wooden swatch gauge, lain on a ripple stitch swatch, in pinks and blues, with text reading:
3 pattern repeats wide,
7 pattern repeats tall for 10 cm / 4 inches
Matching width of stitches is more important than row height.

Stitch Pattern

Spike Stitch


The spike stitch is an easy stitch which gives an extra pop of colour to the row.
A spike stitch is a double crochet stitch, but it is worked into the row below. You draw the yarn up so the top of the stitch is exactly where the top would be for a normal double crochet.

Invisible Join



When working in the round, the basic method is to slip stitch join to the top of the turning chain. This leaves a visible seam and causes the work to ‘bias’ – which means the seam doesn’t stay straight. In this pattern an invisible join is used to hide the seam and keep it straight. If you do not wish to try out this technique, you can still follow the pattern with a normal join, but be aware that you will sometimes need to start a round on a different stitch in the sequence.



To create an invisible join


Step 1: After working the last stitch in the round, pull up the loop, and remove the hook. Then, from the back of the work, insert the hook into the top of the first stitch (NOT into the top of the turning chain). Lastly, pull the stitch through from front to back.

Step 2: On alternate rounds, you will now work into the stitch before the join. In the pattern for the main body, you will work all contrast colour rounds into the stitch after the join. Meanwhile, work the main colour rounds into the stitch before the join. However, when working the cuff, which is all in main colour, you can alternate each row.

Stitches used and their standard abreviations

Cc: contrast colour

Ch: chain

Dc: double crochet

Hdc: half double crochet

MC: Main Colour

Sl st: Slip stitch

St: stitch

Tr: treble crochet

Brown ripple stitch crochet mitten in men’s sizes, designed as part of the Beenoskee crochet pattern by The Fairythorn
Pin this now, crochet later

Pattern Starts. UK terms. (For US terms see below)

Part 1: Mittens Cuff

Worked in Main Colour.
Using smaller hook


  • Set up: chain24 (30, 36, 42, 48), Join with slip stitch to work in the round.

    Round 1: chain 2, treble crochet to end, join with invisible join.

    Round 2: chain 2, treble crochet in first stitch after slip stitch, treble crochet around to end, join with invisible join. Stitch count: 24 (30, 36, 42) treble crochet.
  • Round 3: chain 2, treble crochet in last stitch before slip stitch, treble crochet around to end, join with invisible join.

  • Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 0, (0, 1, 1, 2) times.

    Folding round: chain2, treble crochet back loop only in first stitch after slip stitch, treble crochet back loop only around to end, join with invisible join.

  • Repeat rounds 3 and 2 another 1 (1, 2, 3) times.

    Joining round: chain1, fold cuff along back loop only ridge made in round 4 behind active stitches, work double crochet into each treble crochet from round 7 and corresponding stitch on round 1 to secure. Stitch count: 24 (30, 36, 42) double crochet.

Part Two. Mittens Hand

Change to larger hook

  • Round 1: With main colour, chain 1, double crochet into stitch before join, double crochet each half treble crochet and treble crochet, spike stitch into each double crochet around. Invisible join.

    Round 2: Join contrast colour, chain 1, double crochet half treble crochet, treble crochet 3, half treble crochet, repeat from * to end. Invisible join. 4 (5, 6, 7) repeats of 6 stitches.

    Round 3: Repeat round 1.

    Round 4: With contrast colour, chain 2, treble crochet into stitch after join, treble crochet, *half treble crochet, double crochet, half treble crochet, 3 treble crochet, repeat from * to end, omitting last double crochet. Invisible join.
  • Continue to work 0 (4, 8, 12) more rounds in established sequence. You now have 2 (4, 6, 8) stripes. Check for fit, the mitten should fit from cuff to the base of the thumb, as shown. Adjust number of rounds worked, as needed.

Part 3: Thumb opening

  • First hand
    Thumb Opening Round: With main colour, chain 1, double crochet into stitch before join, double crochet each half treble crochet and treble crochet, spike st into each double crochet to last 4 (5, 6, 8) stitches. Skip remaining stitches, chain 4 (5, 6), Slip stitch join.
  • Second hand.
    Thumb opening round: With main colour, chain 1, double crochet into stitch before join, chain 4 (5, 6, 8), skip next 4 (5, 6, 8) stitches, double crochet each half treble crochet and treble crochet, spike st into each double crochet to end, invisible join.

Part 4: Fingers

On next round, keep in pattern working one stitch for each chain made across thumb opening.

Starting with either round 2 or 4 depending on your size, continue to work in pattern for 10 (12, 14, 16) rounds. 5 (6, 7, 8) stripes from thumb opening.

Part 5: Decreasing rounds


  • Decrease Round 1: With contrast colour, following sequence for starting stitches, work half treble crochet, double crochet, half treble crochet, and work treble crochet 3 together in place of 3 treble crochet sts. (16 (20, 24, 28) stitches in total).

    Decrease Round 2: With main colour, chain 1, double crochet into stitch before join, double crochet each half treble crochet and treble crochet 3 together, spike stitch into each double crochet to end. Invisible join. (16 (20, 24, 28) stitches in total)

    Decrease Round 3: With contrast colour, half treble crochet into each spike stitch, double crochet 3 together across each 3 double crochet. (8 (10, 12, 14) stitches in total)

    Decrease Round 4: With main colour, double crochet around, join with invisible join. (8 (10, 12, 14) stitches)

    Decrease Round 5: With contrast colour, half treble crochet 2 together around. Join with Slip stitch. (4, (5, 6, 8) stitches)

    Disconnect yarn, leaving a tail. Clinch closed the remaining stitches.

Part 6: Thumbs

Return to skipped stitches for thumb opening.

Join main colour, double crochet all skipped stitches, 2 double crochet into side, double crochet into base of stitches above opening, 2 double crochet in side gap. 12 (14, 16 double crochet).

Do not join, continue in a spiral, working double crochet into each stitch around until thumb measures 1.8 (2, 2.2) inches / 4.5 (5, 5.5) cm, or required length. Double crochet 2 together in spiral to close.

Disconnect yarn, thread strand on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close.

Finishing:
Thread remaining strand of yarn on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close. Weave in all ends.

Pattern Starts. US terms. (For UK terms see above)

Part 1. Mittens Cuff

Worked in Main Colour.
Using smaller hook

  • Set up: chain 24 (30, 36, 42, 48), Join with slip stitch to work in the round.
  • Round 1: chain 2, double crochet to end, join with invisible join.
  • Round 2: chain 2, double crochet in first stitch after slip stitch, double crochet around to end, join with invisible join. Stitch count: 24 (30, 36, 42) treble crochet.
  • Round 3: chain 2, double crochet in last stitch before slip stitch, double crochet around to end, join with invisible join.
  • Repeat rounds 2 and 3 another 0, (0, 1, 1, 2) times.
  • Folding round: chain 2, double crochet back loop only in first stitch after slip stitch, double crochet back loop only around to end, join with invisible join.
  • Repeat rounds 3 and 2 another 1 (1, 2, 3) times.
  • Joining round: chain 1, fold cuff along back loop only ridge made in round 4 behind active stitches, work single crochet into each double crochet from round 7 and corresponding stitch on round 1 to secure. Stitch count: 24 (30, 36, 42) double crochet.

Part Two. Mittens Hand

Change to larger hook

  • Round 1: single crochet in each stitch around. Invisible join.

    Round 2: Join contrast colour, chain 1, double crochet, half treble crochet, treble crochet 3, half treble crochet, repeat from * to end. Invisible join. 4 (5, 6, 7) repeats of 6 stitches.

    Round 3: With main colour, chain 1, double crochet into stitch before join, double crochet each half double crochet and double crochet, spike stitch into each single crochet around. Invisible join

    Round 4: With contrast colour, chain 2, double crochet into stitch after join, double crochet, *half double crochet, single crochet, half double crochet, 3 double crochet, repeat from * to end, omitting last double crochet. Invisible join.

    Continue to work 0 (4, 8, 12) more rounds in established sequence. You now have 2 (4, 6, 8) stripes. Check for fit, the mitten should fit from cuff to the base of the thumb, as shown. Adjust number of rounds worked, as needed.

Part 3: Thumb opening

  • First hand
    Thumb Opening Round: With main colour, chain 1, single crochet into stitch before join, single crochet each half double crochet and double crochet, spike st into each single crochet to last 4 (5, 6, 8) stitches. Skip remaining stitches, chain 4 (5, 6), Slip stitch join.
  • Second hand.
    Thumb opening round: With main colour, chain 1, single crochet into stitch before join, chain 4 (5, 6, 8), skip next 4 (5, 6, 8) stitches, single crochet each half double crochet and double crochet, spike st into each single crochet to end, invisible join.

Part 4: Fingers

On next round, keep in pattern working one stitch for each chain made across thumb opening.

Starting with either round 2 or 4 depending on your size, continue to work in pattern for 10 (12, 14, 16) rounds. 5 (6, 7, 8) stripes from thumb opening.

Part 5. Decreasing rounds

  • Decrease Round 1: With contrast colour, following sequence for starting stitches, work half double crochet, single crochet, half double crochet, and work double crochet 3 together in place of 3 double crochet stitches. (16 (20, 24, 28) stitches in total).
  • Decrease Round 2: With main colour, chain 1, single crochet into stitch before join, single crochet each half double crochet and double crochet 3 together, spike stitch into each single crochet to end. Invisible join. (16 (20, 24, 28) stitches in total)
  • Decrease Round 3: With contrast colour, half double crochet into each spike stitch, single crochet 3 together across each 3 single crochet. (8 (10, 12, 14) stitches in total)
  • Decrease Round 4: With main colour, single crochet around, join with invisible join. (8 (10, 12, 14) stitches)
  • Decrease Round 5: With contrast colour, half double crochet 2 together around. Join with slip stitch. (4, (5, 6, 8) stitches)
  • Disconnect yarn, leaving a tail. Finally, cinch closed the remaining stitches.

Part 6: Thumbs

Return to skipped stitchess for thumb opening.

Join main colour, single crochet all skipped stitches, 2 single crochet into side, single crochet into base of stitches above opening, 2 single crochet in side gap. 12 (14, 16 double crochet).

Do not join, continue in a spiral, working single crochet into each stitch around until thumb measures 1.8 (2, 2.2) inches / 4.5 (5, 5.5) cm, or required length. Single crochet 2 together in spiral to close.

Disconnect yarn, thread strand on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close.

Finishing
Lastly, thread remaining strand of yarn on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close. Finally, weave in all ends.


Congratulations on finishing your Beenoskee ripple stitch crochet mittens.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. For a chance to win another free pattern, create a Ravelry project page. Each month I will gift a pattern to one completed project of any of my designs uploaded that month.

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Need help? For pattern support queries, email Ciara@TheFairythorn.ie

Copyright

This pattern was written and developed by Ciara Doyle of The Fairythorn. It was first published in US terms only, child sizes only in ILikeCrochet magazine December 2023. This version, with extra sizes, is copyright Ciara Doyle May 2026. It is not permitted to sell or distribute this pattern in any form, including video.
In summary, this pattern is for your personal enjoyment, and commercial purposes are prohibited. You may sell items made from this pattern on condition they are made by you, in your own home, and sold only on a small scale.

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