Jacobs Ladder crochet stitch tutorial with two free granny square patterns
The Jacobs Ladder crochet stitch is both easy to create and very effective looking. A great addition to your crochet stitch library. This is a stitch most associated with blankets and afghans, but can be used in many types of projects. It uses only basic stitches. Once you know how to chain, slip stitch, single crochet (UK double crochet) and double crochet (UK treble crochet) – that’s it, you can create this textured and colourful crochet stitch.
This stitch tutorial is available free to view here on my blog, or as a PDF download either by buying on Ravelry, or buying on Etsy. The PDF download is available in both UK and US crochet terms. It is also available in standard 15 font or large print 22 font. Find out more about the accessibility features here.
Features of the Jacobs Ladder Crochet Stitch
Difficulty: Easy
Season: Winter
Look: textured, colourful, masculine
Use for: Blankets, cardigans, pullovers, scarves, shawls, and winter or warm garments.
See it in a pattern: Winter Troll hat
This is quite a textured stitch, so best for projects where warmth and texture are desired. Because it thickens the fabric, it reduces drape and flow. As a result, it’s much better for cosy winter scarves, and not so useful for light floaty shawls for summer. It is a stitch which is equally easy to work in rounds (such as for the body of a sweater) or in rows (such as for a blanket). It takes a little more planning, but it can also be used in a granny square – a written out pattern for a granny square using this stitch is below. Increasing and decreasing in this stitch are quite straightforward. So while we most commonly see it in blankets, it works perfectly for garments that need some shaping such as hats, mittens or sweaters.
History of the Jacobs Ladder crochet stitch
Over the years, this stitch has been very traditional. However, it has also evolved, taking on a more contemporary form. In other words, the way it is explained and worked here is different from the way it was worked years ago. I strongly suspect that, like many crochet stitch patterns, it’s name has also changed over the years too. Why do I think that? Because I know, from many pictures I’ve seen, that this stitch has been used extensively from at least the 1950s, especially in blankets and afghans. However, a search for vintage patterns using the ‘Jacobs Ladder’ as a search term yields nothing. Just diddly squat. It’s so frustrating! There is one pattern on Ravelry from 1950 which uses the name, but not the stitch. All other patterns using the name ‘Jacobs Ladder’ are from 2012 onwards.
If you know what this stitch might have been called, or know of an example of it being used in vintage crochet, please do drop a comment. Someone out there can probably ask their grandmother when she learned it, and what it was called when she was a girl learning to crochet.
Accessibility and crochet terms used:
This stitch pattern is written in US and UK crochet terms, using a dyslexia friendly style. The Patterns are written out in standard crochet terms, in UK and US terms, followed by a photo tutorial and an abbreviation free explanation. You can find out more about the accessibility features I use on this blog in my accessibility statement
Materials needed:
This stitch pattern can be worked in any yarn, with an appropriate hook size for that yarn. You will also need a darning needle for weaving in ends, and any other notions as required for the item you are using the stitch for. To complete the swatches exactly as shown, you will need
Hobbii Baby Cotton Midi, weight 2, fine, 100% organic cotton, 50g, 105 meters /115 yards per ball. Use 2 or more colours.
One swatch will take 20 grammes, 45 meters in total.
Tension/gauge:
The swatches shown are 15 cm / 6 inches square, using the stitch counts given.18 stitches = 10 cm / 4 inches15 rows = 10cm/ 4 inches.
Matching my gauge is not important. Enjoy learning the stitch in the yarn and hook size that suits you. Use the squares as Afghan blocks, cup coasters or table mats, depending on the size they come out. If embarking on a pattern for this stitch, you can use the swatch here to check gauge for the pattern using the yarn and hook for that item
Checking gauge for the length of the loops.
Most instructions for this stitch pattern require a chain of 10 to make the decorative loops which are a feature of this pattern. This chain 10 needs to be exactly long enough to come up over a row of tall stitches (UK treble, US double crochet) plus a row of short stitches (UK double, US single), leaving some space to wrap around the next loop. Beginner crocheters often start out with very tight chain stitches, while a few may have very loose chains. If the tension on your chains isn’t right, but the tension on the rest of your stitches is correct, then messing about with changing hook size won’t help. Instead, changing the number of chain stitches is better. Work 12 instead of 10 if your loop is too short. Work 8 instead of 10 if the loop is too long.
To work the Jacobs Ladder Crochet Stitch. UK terms – for US terms see below
Stitches and abbreviations in UK/international terms
Ch – chain
Cnr sp – corner space
Dc – double crochet
JL – Jacobs Ladder Loop- chain 10, join with slip stitch to base of chainRnd – round
RS – Right Side. The front of the work.Sl st – slip stitchSt(s) – stitch(es)
Tr – treble crochet
WS – Wrong Side. The back of the work.
Jacobs ladder in rows. UK Terms
Set up: Ch any multiple of 4 plus 1. Swatch shown uses a starting chain of 29. All stitch counts given relate to this suggestion)
Row 1: (RS) in C1, dc into second ch from hook and each ch st across. Ch 1 and turn. (28 sts)
Row 2: (WS), dc 3, ch 10 and join with sl st to base of chain (JL), [dc 4, JL] to last 2 sts, dc 2. (28 dc sts, 7 JL loops)
Row 3: change to C2. Tr in each stitch across, pushing loops to front of work and working behind them.
Note: Check stitch count is the same as row 1. It’s easy to gain or loose a stitch when working behind the loops.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 once more. You now have 2 rows of loops. Test the tension of the loops by weaving one loop from the second row into the loop of the row below it. Use your crochet hook or fingers, whichever feels more natural. Check it is not stretched or puckering the fabric.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for length desired, allowing for finishing rows. Swatch shown uses 8 repeats in total.
Finishing row 1: dc to end without making loops.Weave loops together. Starting at the bottom, pull the second row of loops through the very bottom ones, then pull the third row of loops through those, continue to the top with all loops secured.
Finishing row 2: Change colour to next in sequence. Dc 2, [dc through loop and next stitch together to secure loop. Dc 3] to end, replacing final ‘dc 3’ with ‘dc 2’.
Finishing row 3: dc to end, fasten off and disconnect.
Jacobs Ladder Crochet Stitch granny square. UK terms – for US terms see below.
Set up: in C1, ch 5 and sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as tr) 2tr in centre ring, chain 2, [3tr, chain 2] 3 times. Join with sl st. Stitches: 4 sides of 3 tr each, 4 corners of ch 2 each.
Rnd 2: dc in cnr sp. *Dc in next st [dc, ch 10, dc] in next stitch. dc in next st, [dc, ch 12, dc] in cnr sp. Repeat from * another 3 times. Join with slip st.
Note: the corner loops need to stretch on the diagonal. They benefit from a slight increase in length. I recommend working a chain 12 for the 4 corners, and a chain 10 for 4 sides. Adjust to suit your tension/gauge.
Rnd 3: join C2 with sl st in dc after any cnr and chain 3. Tr in same space. Working behind loop, [tr in next 4 sts. 2 tr in next st, ch 2, 2 tr in next st]. Repeat to end, omitting final 2 tr, and join with sl st. Stitch count: 4 sides of 8 tr each, 4 corner spaces of ch 2 each.
Rnd 4: [dc in ch 2 cnr sp, dc to gap behind loop, JL, dc to cnr sp, dc, JL,] 4 times, join with sl st.
Repeat rnds 3 and 4 for length desired, ending on a rnd 3.
Finishing
Finishing rnd 1: [dc in ch 2 cnr sp, working behind loop dc to cnr sp, dc 4 in ch 2 sp] 4 times, omitting 1 dc in final corner. Join with sl st.
Finishing rnd 2: [dc to JL, dc into top of loop] 8 times, join with sl st.Note, on this round, 8 extra dc are created, as the tops of the JL stitches are worked separately and not into an existing stitch, as they are in the straight rows.
Finishing rnd 3: [dc to cnr st, 2 dc] 4 times. Fasten off and disconnect.
To work the Jacobs Ladder Crochet Stitch. US terms – for UK terms see above
Stitches and abbreviations in US terms
Ch – chain
Cnr sp – corner space
Dc – double crochet
JL – Jacobs Ladder Loop- chain 10, join with slip stitch to base of chainRnd – round
RS – Right Side. The front of the work.Sl st – slip stitchSt(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – Single Crochet
WS – Wrong Side. The back of the work.
Jacobs ladder in rows. US Terms
Set up: Ch any multiple of 4 plus 1. Swatch shown uses a starting chain of 29. All stitch counts given relate to this suggestion)
Row 1: (RS) in C1, sc into second ch from hook and each ch st across. Ch 1 and turn. (28 sts)
Row 2: (WS), sc 3, ch 10 and join with sl st to base of chain (JL), [sc 4, JL] to last 2 sts, sc 2. (28 dc sts, 7 JL loops)
Row 3: change to C2. Dc in each stitch across, pushing loops to front of work and working behind them.
Note: Check stitch count is the same as row 1. It’s easy to gain or loose a stitch when working behind the loops.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 once more. You now have 2 rows of loops. Test the tension of the loops by weaving one loop from the second row into the loop of the row below it. Use your crochet hook or fingers, whichever feels more natural. Check it is not stretched or puckering the fabric.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for length desired, allowing for finishing rows. Swatch shown uses 8 repeats in total.
Finishing row 1: dc to end without making loops.Weave loops together. Starting at the bottom, pull the second row of loops through the very bottom ones, then pull the third row of loops through those, continue to the top with all loops secured.
Finishing row 2: Change colour to next in sequence. Dc 2, [dc through loop and next stitch together to secure loop. Dc 3] to end, replacing final ‘dc 3’ with ‘dc 2’.
Finishing row 3: dc to end, fasten off and disconnect.
Jacobs Ladder Crochet Stitch granny square. US terms – for UK terms see above.
Set up: in C1, ch 5 and sl st to form a ring.
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as dc) 2dc in centre ring, chain 2, [3dc, chain 2] 3 times. Join with sl st. Stitches: 4 sides of 3 dc each, 4 corners of ch 2 each.
Rnd 2: sc in cnr sp. *Sc in next st [sc, ch 10, sc] in next stitch. Sc in next st, [sc, ch 12, sc] in cnr sp. Repeat from * another 3 times. Join with slip st.
Note: the corner loops need to stretch on the diagonal. They benefit from a slight increase in length. I recommend working a chain 12 for the 4 corners, and a chain 10 for 4 sides. Adjust to suit your tension/gauge.
Rnd 3: join C2 with sl st in sc after any cnr and chain 3. Dc in same space. Working behind loop, [dc in next 4 sts. 2 dc in next st, ch 2, 2 dc in next st]. Repeat to end, omitting final 2 dc, and join with sl st. Stitch count: 4 sides of 8 dc each, 4 corner spaces of ch 2 each.
Rnd 4: [sc in ch 2 cnr sp, sc to gap behind loop, JL, sc to cnr sp, sc, JL,] 4 times, join with sl st.
Repeat rnds 3 and 4 for length desired, ending on a rnd 3.
Finishing
Finishing rnd 1: [sc in ch 2 cnr sp, working behind loop sc to cnr sp, sc 4 in ch 2 sp] 4 times, omitting 1 sc in final corner. Join with sl st.
Finishing rnd 2: [sc to JL, sc into top of loop] 8 times, join with sl st.Note, on this round, 8 extra dc are created, as the tops of the JL stitches are worked separately and not into an existing stitch, as they are in the straight rows.
Finishing rnd 3: [sc to cnr st, 2 sc] 4 times. Fasten off and disconnect.
Jacobs ladder crochet stitch photo tutorial without abbreviations.
Straight rows
Set up: (picture one) In colour 1, chain any multiple of 4, and add one extra stitch as a starting chain. I chained 29 for the sample.
Row 1: Using colour 1 again, single crochet (UK double crochet) into the second chain from the hook, and each chain across. This gave me 28 stitches in my sample. Take note of your stitch count so you can check later that it remains the same.
Row 2: chain 1, single crochet (UK double crochet) the first 3 stitches. Chain 10 and join with a slip stitch to the base of chain. You have just made your first Jacobs Ladder. Any instructions to make a Jacobs Ladder mean repeating this step) Repeat the following step to the end of the row: [single crochet 4, Jacobs Ladder]. When you have worked your last Jacobs Ladder loop, you will have 2 stitches left at the end of the row. Single crochet both. (If you are following my stitch counts, you will have 28 single crochet stitches and 7 Jacobs Ladder loops)
Row 3: change to colour 2. Double crochet (UK treble crochet) in each stitch across, pushing loops to the front of the work and working behind them.
Note: Check stitch count is the same as row 1. It’s easy to gain or loose a stitch when working behind the loops.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you are at the length you want, ending on a row 3.
How to finish your square
Finishing row 1: Single crochet to end, without making any loops.
Weave loops together. Starting at the bottom, pull the second row of loops through the very bottom ones, then pull the third row of loops through those, continue to the top with all loops secured.
Finishing row 2: Change colour to next in sequence. Single crochet 2, single crochet into the next stitch and the top of the first loop together. Insert your hook into the loop first, then into the stitch, then yarn over and pull through as normal. Continue by working three stitches and securing the next loop to the end of the row, single crochet the last 2 stitches.
Finishing row 3: dc to end, fasten off and disconnect.
Jacobs Ladder Granny Square
Set up: In colour 1, chain 5 and slip stitch to form a ring.
Round 1: chain 3 (which counts as a double crochet stitch). Work 2 double crochet in centre ring, chain 2, then work [3 double crochet and chain 2] 3 times. Join with slip stitch. Stitches: you have 4 sides of 3 double crochet each, and 4 corners of chain 2 each.
Round 2: single crochet in the corner space (the chain 2). *Single crochet in the next stitch. [single crochet, ch 10, single crochet] in next stitch. Single crochet in next stitch, [single crochet, chain 12, single crochet] in corner space. Repeat from * another 3 times. Join with a slip stitch.
Note: the corner loops need to stretch on the diagonal. They benefit from a slight increase in length. I recommend working a chain 12 for the 4 corners, and a chain 10 for 4 sides, which is the way I have written it out. Adjust as needed to suit your own tension/gauge.
Round 3: join colour 2 with a slip stitch in a single crochet after any corner and chain 3. Double crochet in the same space. Working behind loop, [double crochet in the next 4 stitches. Now work 2 double crochet in the next stitch, chain 2, 2 double crochet in next stitch]. Repeat the instruction in the brackets to the end, omitting the final 2 double crochet, and join with slip stitch. Stitch count: 4 sides of 8 double crochet each, 4 corner spaces of chain 2 each.
Round 4: work instruction in brackets 4 times in total: [single crochet in chain 2 corner space, single crochet to gap behind loop, Jacobs Ladder, single crochet to corner space, single crochet, Jacobs Ladder] join with slip stitch stitch.
Repeat rounds 3 and 4 for length desired, ending on a round 3.
Finishing your square
Finishing round 1: work instruction in brackets 4 times: [single crochet in chain 2 corner space, working behind loops, single crochet to corner space, single crochet 4 in ch 2 space] You will work the final corner with one less single crochet as that was where you placed your starting stitch. Join with slip stitch.
Finishing round 2: [single crochet to Jacobs Ladder, single crochet into the top of loop] 8 times, join with slip stitch. Note, on this round, 8 extra single crochet are created, as the tops of the loops are worked separately and not into an existing stitch, as they are in the straight rows.
Finishing round 3: [single crochet to the corner space, 2 single crochet in corner] 4 times. Fasten off and disconnect.
Variations on the Jacobs Ladder stitch
In this stitch tutorial, the loops are spaced 4 stitches apart when worked in straight rows. However, you can place them as far apart or as close as desired.This stitch works really well when combined with a chevron or wave stitch pattern.
Increasing and decreasing in Jacobs Ladder Crochet stitch pattern.
To increase or decrease to create shaping, in this stitch is quite easy compared to other stitch patterns.Simply work the increases or decreases in the standard stitches between the loops. Be aware that loops which will travel on the diagonal, as in the granny square pattern given, may benefit from extra chain stitches, as they will need to be slightly longer.
What to make next:
Congratulations on finishing the Jacobs Ladder stitch tutorial. What did you crochet in this stitch? I would love to see. Why not post to instagram, and tag @TheFairythorn,Did you know, I have a FREE pattern for newsletter subscribers? Sign up here to get my henley pattern for men and women in 9 sizes sent straight to your inbox, and never miss a free monthly crochet stitch pattern.
Copyright.
This tutorial, including the wording and the pictures, are my work and copyright. The stitch demonstrated is a traditional stitch which anyone is free to use or adapt as they see fit. The wording and images in this blog, however, are my own work.Please do not distribute them in any way except by using the link to this blog post. You may not copy in any way, including by making your own videos, if they are directly based on my work.This blog is not intended for commercial use. You may sell finished items based on this tutorial only if you have made them in your own home, with your own hands. However, selling your own makes from this tutorial for charity, such as at a school fair to raise money for your local school, is strongly encouraged. I would love to hear about your event, and how it went.