Free Delvin Vest Knitting Pattern. Easy, Dramatic Garter Lace
The Delvin Vest Knitting Pattern uses a drop-shoulder design with minimal shaping, making it accessible for adventurous beginners. But the dramatic lace stitch and oversized fit work together to create a flattering silhouette. With no purl stitches, it’s quick to knit. Ideal for those who want a warm, layer without bulk. The pattern is free to read on the blog (ad-supported), or you can purchase the ad-free PDF from Ravelry or Etsy.
The Delvin Vest takes its name, and its spirit, from the ruined castle at the heart of Delvin village, just a stone’s throw from where this pattern was born. The lace stitches in this design mimic the arched windows of the old castle, blending history and modernity into a knit that’s as rich in story as it is in texture.
This pattern is all about versatility and wearability. The bold lacework creates a dramatic, eye-catching fabric, while the simple construction keeps it accessible for intermediate knitters. Choose to knit it as a sleeveless vest for a light layer, add sleeves for a cozy sweater, or include the hood for a touch of rustic charm, or add both.
Like the castle that inspired it, the Delvin Vest is built to last, a timeless addition to any knitter’s collection.
Using a very distinctive (but easy to knit) stitch, this pattern flies up quickly in Aran weight yarn.
Sizes
Note: Due to the stitch pattern repeat, each size is 12 cm / 4¾ inches larger than the previous one in actual chest measurement. Therefore, the size jumps are slightly wider than typical patterns. The Delvin sweater and vest are designed to be worn with approximately 15 cm / 6 inches of positive ease. If you’re between sizes, I recommend sizing up, especially for this loose, slightly oversized style.
To fit chest size: 71 (81, 92, 107) [117, 130, 142] (152, 165, 178) cm /
28 (32, 36, 42) [46, 51, 56] (60, 65, 70) inches.
Actual measurements of finished garment
Chest: 84 (96, 108, 120) [132, 144, 156] (168, 180, 192) cm / 33 (37¾, 42½, 47¼) [52, 56¾, 61½] (66¼, 70¾, 75½) inches.
Length (adjustable): 53 cm / 21 inches from back neck to hem.
Sweater length suggestions are based on a person of average height (5’6” to 5’7”). It presumes styling the sweater on the high hip so it sits just below the waistband of jeans. Length is completely adjustable, just do more or fewer rows, always ending after a full block on a Row 10 or 20.
Yarn and materials:
Yarn required: Yarn Vibes, Cliffs of Moher, 100% wool, Aran weight, 100g / 150 meters per skein. Sample made in colour ‘Cornflower’.
Yarn requirements for Vest
4 (4, 5, 5) [6, 6, 7] (7, 8, 8) skeins / 600 (600, 750, 750) [900, 900, 1,050] (1,050, 1,200, 1200) meters.
Yarn requirements for Total Project (hooded pullover, including sleeves and hood)
8 (8, 9, 10) [11, 11, 12] (13, 15, 15) skeins / 1,200 (1,200, 1,350, 1,500) [1,650, 1,650, 1,800] (1,950, 2,250, 2,250) meters.
Yarn substitution recommendations:
Use a thicker Aran weight yarn, with a recommended needle size of 5 – 5.5 mm.
Use a yarn with a high wool content for a similar appearance to the sample.
Needle size:
Larger needles: 5.5 mm needles (or size required to match tension)
Smaller needles: 4.5 mm needles, or one mm smaller than ‘larger needles’
For those planning the full projects, note that circular needles with a cable of at least 80cm are required to knit the hood. All other parts of the project can be knitted on straight needles if desired.
Notions:
Stitch markers: Between 6 and 15, depending on size. Use shaped markers such as square, hexagon or triangle ones if possible, as round stitch markers can slip under yarn overs.
Locking/removable stitch markers or pins of your choice (for pinning sides together before sewing)
Darning/wool needle (blunt needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends).
2 stitch holders (for holding neckline stitches)
Scissors or yarn snips
Measuring tape (for checking length and fit)
Construction
The Delvin vest knitting pattern is a versatile design that can be used to create a vest. You can add sleeves to convert to a sweater, or a hood to convert to a hoodie, using the linked patterns, if you wish.
Start by knitting the front and back panels of the vest flat. Beginning at the hem, you knit bottom up. If you hate purling, this is the pattern for you, it is knit in a garter stitch lace, and there are no purl stitches used, anywhere.
When you have knitted the front and back panels, you will then pick up stitches around the neckline. Then, join the shoulder and side seams. The neckline, which can either be worked in the round or flat, whichever you prefer.
Tension/gauge
Lace stitch:
Stitch gauge: 1 full pattern repeat of 20 stitches = 12 cm / 4 ¾ inches
Row gauge: 1 full pattern repeat of 20 rows = 8 cm / 3 inches
Garter stitch:
16 stitches = 10 cm / 4 inches
32 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches
Note on matching tension. Because this dramatic stitch pattern is based on stitches waving up and down, which is created by a difference in stitch height and direction between the 2 stitches used; it can be hard to find a spot to lay a tape measure and check your tension, when working in pattern.
I strongly recommend knitting a garter stitch swatch of at least 15 cm / 6 inches, and knitting a separate lace swatch of the same size, and checking both. If necessary, prioritise matching the garter stitch swatch below
To knit a garter stitch swatch:
Cast on 30 stitches.
Knit 30 rows.
Cast off loosely.
To knit a lace swatch.
Cast on 33 stitches.
Row 1: k to end.
Row 2: k2, [yo, k2tog] to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 14 times.
Repeat Row 1 once more
Cast off loosely.
Note, this lace swatch will lean a bit drunkenly to one side, but will give you a central section to check your stitch and row count over 10 cm.
Abbreviations used
k: Knit k2tog: Knit 2 stitches together pm: Place marker psso: Pass slipped stitch over rep: Repeat RS: Right side sl: Slip sl m: Slip marker st(s): Stitch(es) WS: Wrong side yo: Yarn over ()[](): Sizes/options (e.g., 25 (25, 30)) []: stitch repeat *: Repeat from *
Note: sl1, k1, psso (slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over), is used throughout as a right leaning decrease. If you have a strong preference for an SSK (slip, slip, knit) decrease, you can substitute this, and work it anywhere the pattern calls for sl1, k1, psso, as long as it is consistent, and you make the same substitution throughout. Just be careful not to change which right leaning decrease you use mid project, as this could create a tiny but noticeable change in the lace pattern.
Stitch pattern
About ‘Pattern repeats’ and ‘pattern blocks’
In this pattern, the full pattern repeat uses 20 stitches and 20 rows.
Each full pattern repeat contains 4 ‘blocks’: two in width (one garter stitch block and one lace block) and two in height (one lace block and one garter stitch block).
When the pattern refers to a ‘pattern repeat’, this means the full 20 stitches or rows.
A ‘pattern block’, on the other hand, refers to the 10 stitches or rows which make up half the pattern repeat (garter or lace section only).
Stitch pattern
Row 1 (RS): k to end.
Row 2 (WS): [sl 1, k1, psso, yo] 5 times, k10.
Rows 3 to 10: repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 4 times each to complete the first 10 row block.
Row 11 (RS): k to end.
Row 12 (WS): k10, [yo, k2tog] 5 times.
Rows 13 to 20: repeat Rows 11 and 12 another 4 times each to complete the second 10 row block.
A total of 20 rows have been worked, giving one full pattern repeat with 4 blocks, 2 of garter stitch and 2 of lace, which lean in opposite directions.
Delvin Vest Knitting Pattern Starts
Part 1: Back.
Hem
The hem is worked in rows of garter stitch, for at least 20 rows.
Using smaller needles
Cast on 70 (80, 90, 100) [110, 120, 130] (140, 150, 160) stitches, using a cable cast on, or your preferred method.
Rows 1 to 20: k to end.
Note: making the hem shorter, or on the same needles as the main body, will result in hem flip in this stitch, (I experimented so you don’t have to). I recommend working at least the number of rows stated for the hem, and don’t be tempted to shorten it to get to the fun of the lace stitches sooner. If you like a long, dramatic hem, you can safely lengthen it.
Body
Note: the lace pattern is always worked on wrong side rows. The stitch pattern is almost reversible, but looks better when the lace rows are treated as wrong side rows. Placing a distinctive marker in the right side of the hem can help you keep track.
Change to larger needles.
Row 1 (RS): k5, pm, [k10, pm] to last 5 stitches, k to end.
You now have 5 stitches on both sides for the border and 6 (7, 8, 9) [10, 11, 12] (13, 14, 15) repeats of 10 stitches between markers.
Sizes 1 (3) [5, 7] (9)
Row 2 (WS): k5, sl m, *[sl 1, k1, psso, yo] 5 times, sl m, k10, sl m, rep from * to last 5 sts, k to end, slipping marker(s) as encountered.
Sizes (2, 4) [6] (8, 10)
Row 2 (WS): k5, sl m, *[sl 1, k1, psso, yo] 5 times, sl m, k10, sl m, rep from * to last 15 sts, [sl 1, k1, psso, yo] 5 times, k to end, slipping marker(s) as encountered.
You have now worked a 10 row repeat which sets up the first half of the stitch pattern.
The stitch pattern now changes to a left leaning pattern worked above the garter stitch blocks, and garter stitch blocks above the lace blocks.
Row 11: k to end.
Sizes 1 (3) [5, 7] (9)
Row 12: k5, sl m, k10, *[yo, k2tog] 5 times, k10, rep from * to last 15 sts, [yo, k2tog] 5 times, k to end.
Sizes (2, 4) [6] (8, 10)
Row 12: k5, sl m, k10, *[yo, k2tog] 5 times, k10, rep from * to last 5 sts, k to end.
You have now completed the first full pattern repeat, of 2 blocks in height.
☆ (work to this point for front)
Repeat these 20 rows for desired length, ending after one full block (Row 10 or 20). Sample shown uses 130 pattern rows (not counting 20 hem rows), worked as Rows 1 to 20 another 5 times, and then Rows 1 to 10 once more.
Back neck
Front
Work as for Back to this symbol ☆, for first full pattern repeat.
Repeat these 20 rows for 30 rows less than worked for Back; you will work 3 blocks less, or 1 and a half full repeats less. Sample shown uses 100 rows to start of Front neckline, not counting hem rows.
Front neckline
Right side Front neckline
Note that sizes 1 (2, – 4) [5, -, 7] [8, -, -] turn to start the neckline at the start of a pattern repeat block, while sizes – (-, 3, -) [-. 6, -] (-, 9, 10] turn to start the neck shaping half way through a block of 10 stitches. All stitches on the neckline side of the marker will always be worked as garter stitch, while stitches on the shoulder side are worked in established pattern
Work in established pattern without further decreases until Front measures same as Back to shoulder shaping, and you have the same row count.
Centre neckline
Left side Front neckline
Work in established pattern without further decreases until Front measures same as Back to shoulder shaping, and you have the same row count.
Last row (RS): k to end.
Cast off.
Neckline
Note: The neckline can either be knitted in the round, or flat. Follow the pattern for your preferred option
Option 1: Knitted in the round
Join both shoulder seams.
Using 4.5 mm (smaller) needles:
Option 2: Knitted flat
Join left shoulder seam only.
Using 4.5mm (smaller) needles
If creating a vest without sleeves:
Try on, and identify how deep an armhole you would like, or use a recommended 15 (15, 15, 18) [18, 18, 20] (20, 20, 23) cm / 6 (6, 6, 7) (7, 7, 8) (8, 8, 9) inches. Use stitch markers to pin sides together. Sew from hem to start of armhole on each side.
If creating a sweater with sleeves, first knit both sleeves following the instructions in this post. Sew sleeves in place before sewing the sides together. Proceed to ‘sleeves’.
If knitting a hood on a sleeveless vest, proceed to ‘hood’ post.
Thanks and acknowledgements:
This pattern was Tech Edited by Louise Plumridge, my thanks as always. Any errors that remain are my own. The PDF was formatted by Dara Adams. The stitch pattern used is my own adaption of a pattern presented on page 251 of Wendy Bernard The Ultimate All Around Stitch Dictionary. published by Abrams, New York.
Copyright
This pattern, including the wording and the pictures, are my work and copyright. Please do not distribute them in any way except by using the link to this blog post. You may not copy in any way, including by making your own videos, if they are directly based on my work.
This blog is not intended for commercial use. You may sell finished items based on this pattern only if you have made them in your own home, with your own hands. However, selling your own makes from this pattern, especially for charity, is strongly encouraged. I would love to hear about your event, and how it went.