‘Ag Tús’ Easy doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners

“Ag Tús” is an easy doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners. It fits all popular 18-inch dolls and can even be adapted for tiny versions to use as a Christmas garland. The construction is simple: knit from the bottom up, add sleeves, and finish with the neckband. This is an easy, low-stakes project that makes a great gift for any doll lover. It’s also the perfect way to practice sweater construction before casting on your first full-sized sweater. Whether you want to delight a child, stock a craft fair stall, or test your skills on a tiny project, why not give it a go?

Ag Tús is Irish for ‘starting’ or ‘begining’ and this is a great pattern for making a start on knitting garments. This pattern was originally published as part of a summit presentation on how to knit sweaters, with 3 other doll patterns. A raglan, a dolman and a set in sleeve. All patterns coming here to the blog soon.

Yarn and Materials:

Yarn

This easy doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners uses 100 meters/50g of worsted weight yarn. The samples was made using Sirdar Sublime Merino, and Drops Paris.

Any worsted weight yarn that works to gauge should work.

Each cardigan took exactly a full 50g ball of yarn with nothing left over,
and a tense game of yarn chicken for the neckband and bind off.
If stash diving or purchasing, I do recommend using a yarn where
you have one full 50g ball plus a small scrap left over from another project, just in case.

Knitting Needles

You will also need 4.5mm needles, or size to match gauge.

Additionally, I recommend knitting the hem on smaller needles, I used 3.75mm.

Any type of needles will work for the project, as it is fully knitted in rows.

Notions

Stitch holders – safety pins could be used
Darning needle for weaving in ends
4 Buttons – 1 cm diameter

Tension / gauge

21stitches by 30 rows = 10 x 10cm of stocking stitch.

For doll clothes or festive decorations, it is possible to play
about with gauge. Try different yarn and needles, see what
size they come out. Why not experiment now? Note, I
would never recommend this for clothes to be worn by a
person. Not only will the garment not fit, but tension
affects drapes and appearance, so it won’t look right or feel
right on either. But when knitting for dolls we don’t need to
worry so much. Which is one of the reasons they make great learning projects.

If using the patterns as Christmas decoration, use fingering or light fingering yarn, and 3 or 3.5 mm needles.

Stitches and Abbreviations used

This pattern only uses garter stitch and stocking stitch, so you can focus on building your confidence, seeing how a cardigan is constructed. The following terms are used:

Garter stitch: when knitting flat as in this pattern, garter stitch means knit every row. It is a textured stitch, with ridges showing.

Stocking Stitch: In the US, this stitch is called ‘stockinette’. When you knit in rows for this pattern, you knit 1 row, purl 1 row, and repeat.

Knitting abbreviations used:

co – cast on
k – knit
kfb – knit into the front and back of the stitch (increase 1 stitch)
of the stitch to increase
k2tog – knit 2 sts together (decrease 1 st)
m – marker
p – purl
pfkb – purl into front of stitch, knit into back of stitch (increase 1 stitch)
rep – repeat
rs – right side
sl m – slip marker
ssk – slip 2 sts knitwise, and knit 2 sts together (decrease 2 sts)
st(s) – stitches
ws – wrong side
yo – yarn over

How to knit a small easy buttonhole

Construction

The easy doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners starts at the hem. You knit the first garter stitch stripe, then knit stripes of stocking stitch and garter stitch until you reach the armhole. You then knit the first front, followed by the back, followed by the second front. You then sew the shoulder seams together. You knit the sleeves separately, and sew them in place. You can then knit the collar, and sew in the buttons.

Pattern starts. Easy Doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners.

Each section is written in narrative style explaining what to do, easier for some people such as dyslexic or autistic knitters to follow. I then followed with the traditional layout, and row by row instructions. Use whichever part of the instructions works for you.

Part 1. Hem.

Note: I used a smaller needles – 3.75mm for the hem. This helps
prevent ‘hem flip’ where the hem keeps folding up. But it’s not
essential. If you want to work the whole cardigan on the one set of
needles, go ahead. When the doll is wearing the cardigan any hem
flip won’t be visible anyway.

To knit the hem, cast on 68 stitches using any cast on methods you are comfortable with. Then knit 2 rows. On the 3rd row add a buttonhole. To make the buttonhole, knit 1 stitch, yarn over and knit 2 stitches together, knit to end. On the next row, knit to end, knitting the yarn over as a stitch. Knit another 3 rows so you have 6 in total.

Set Up: on smaller needles, co 68 sts
Row 1 (rs): k to end.
Row 2 (ws): k to end.
Row 3 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, k to end
Rows 4-6: k to end.

Part 2. Lower Body in stocking stitch

You will knit the body in bands of stocking stitch and garter stitch, with garter stitch at the edge of all sections to form the button band. Change to larger needles. On the first row (which is a wrong side row), knit 4 stitches, purl to the last 4, then knit four. Knit the second row all the way across. Continue by repeating the last 2 rows until you have 8 rows worked.

Change to larger needles (if using)
Row 1: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2: k4, p to last 4 sts, k4.
Rep Rows 1-2 another 3 times for a total of 8 rows of stocking stitch.

Part 3, garter stitch stripe

You now switch back to garter stitch, and add the next buttonhole.

To do this, knit 2 rows. Then make a buttonhole at the start of the next row, just as before (knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit to end). Knit another 4 rows.

Rows 9-10: k to end.
Row 11 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, k to end.
Rows 11-14: k to end.

Part 4. Stocking stitch stripe

Just work 8 rows of stocking stitch with a 4 stitch garter stitch border, as before

Rep rows 1-2 another 4 times

Right Front

Now, you will create the armholes. You need to knit the first 19 stitches only, leaving the stitches for the back and second front on the needle. You continue with another garter stitch stripe with a buttonhole, then a stocking stitch stripe. At that point, you will progress to shaping the neckband (explained below)

Row 1 (rs): k19, turn, leaving remaining stitches unworked
Row 2: k to end
Row 3: (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, k to end
Rows 4-6: k to end
Row 7: k to end
Row 8: p to last 4, k to end
Rep Rows 7-8 another 3 times, for a total of 8 stocking stitch rows

Neckline shaping

In the last garter stitch stripe, you need to shape the neckline. Knit one row. On the second row, only knit to the last 7 stitches. Pop these stitches on a safety pin, dont knit them. Turn. Knit 2 together and knit to the end. Then knit one row (which will be 11 stitches). Repeat the last 2 rows again. You now have 10 stitches for the shoulder. Cast off.

Row 1: k to end
Row 2: k12, turn, leaving remaining stitches on a stitch holder
Row 3: k2tog, k to end (11 sts)
Row 4: k to end
Row 5: k2tog, k to end (10 sts)
Row 6: k to end
Cast off

Back

You now go back to the stitches you left on the needle. Rejoin your yarn, and knit 30 stitches. Leave the remaining 19 for the front. Turn and work the 30 back stitches only. You now knit until you have 6 rows, then knit 1 row, purl one row until you have 8 stocking stitch rows. Finally, you need to knit five rows. On the last row, cast off 10 for tge first shoulder, knit 10 (these stitches will be used for the neckband) and cast off the last 10.

Return to stitches on hold for main body and rejoin yarn
Row 1 (rs): k30, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked
Rows 2-6: k to end
Row 7: k to end
Row 8: p to end
Rep Rows 7-8 another 3 times, for a total of 8 stocking stitch rows
Rows 15-19: k to end
Row 20: cast off first 10 sts, k9 (10 sts on needle, including stitch
from cast off) cast off remaining 10 sts, fasten off and cut yarn.
Slip 10 remaining active stitches onto stitch holder.

Left Front

The left front is worked the same as the right front, but with neckline shaping reversed. As before, rejoin yarn with the right side of the work facing you, at the start of the remaining 19 stitches. We dont have buttonholes to worry about this time, so good ahead and knit 6 rows of garter stitch, ten 8 rows of stocking stitch, with the last 4 stitches of each of those rows knit. On the next row, knit 12, and slip the last 7 to a safety pin. Turn and knit the 12 stitches. On the next row, knit to the last 2 stitches, knit 2 together. (11 stitches). Repeat those 2 rows, leaving you with 10 stitches. Knit 1 more row and cast off.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to remaining 19 stitches for body.
Rows 1-6: k to end
Row 7: k to end
Row 8: p to last 4 sts, k to end
Rep Rows 7-8 another 3 times, for a total of 8 stocking stitch rows
Neckline shaping
Row 1: k12, slip remaining 7 sts onto stitch holder, or leave on needle unworked
Row 2: k to end
Row 3: k10, k2tog (11 sts)
Row 4: k to end
Row 5: k9, k2tog (10 sts)
Row 6: k to end
Cast off

Sleeves (both alike)

You will now knit the 2 sleeves (both exactly the same). If you used smaller needles for the hem, use them here too, for the first 4 rows, then switch to the bigger needles. Cast on 20 stitches, and knit 4 rows. Switch to bigger needles. You now work in stocking stitch, while increasing slightly over the next few rows. On the next row, knit into both the front and back of the first stitch (knit into the front leg of the stitch as normal, but dont drop it from the needle, knit into the back leg as well, so you have made to stitches from one). Substitute an alternative increase if you prefer. You will now have 22 stitches. Purl 1 row, then repeat the increase row.

Check that half the sleeve will fit exactly in the sleeve opening. If your row gauge is off at all, you may need to adjust here, and use more (or fewer) Increases.

Knit until you have 21 rows (or the right length for your dolls arm), allowing for the final 6 rows.

Knit 6 rows to create the garter stitch band, and cast off.

Co 20 sts, using smaller needle if using.
Rows 1-4: k to end
Row 5: change to larger needle, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (22 sts)
Row 6: p to end
Row 7: rep Row 5 (24 sts)
Row 8: p to end
Row 9: k to end
Rep Rows 8-9 another 6 times
Rows 22-27: k to end
Cast off

Assembly

Sew together shoulder seams
On both sides, position the centre top of each sleeve aligned with edge of shoulder seam, and pin in place. Sew top of sleeve to side of body, then sew sleeve seam closed.

Neckline:

Using smaller needle

Set up: Starting with Right Front right neck edge, k7 from stitch holder, pick up and k3 from neck edge, k10 from back stitch holder, pick up and k3 from neck edge, k7 from stitch holder for Left Front. (30 sts)
Rows 1: k to end
Row 2 (buttonhole row): k1, k2tog, yo, k to end
Rows 3-5: k to end
Cast off.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends

Sew buttons in place, to correspond to the button holes.

What to knit next

Congratulations on finishing your Ag Tús easy doll cardigan knitting pattern for beginners. I hope you found this a manageable pattern, or just a fun quick knit for those who arent beginners.

What to knit next:

If you enjoy making dolls clothes, why not try making socks for your 18 inch doll next? Or a dress for a 14 inch doll?

Or if your next goal is to try a drop shoulder sweater for a human, check out my Delvin pattern. It uses a dramatic but easy to learn stitch pattern, and a similar easy construction as this doll’s cardigan.

Or get playful

Try knitting the pattern with stripes of colour instead of garter stitch.

For those that know how to knit using the magic loop or other small circumference knitting in the round, try picking up stitches and knitting the sleeves top down in the round. Slightly more advanced, but would give a very seamless polished look. Play around with the pattern and make it your own!

Acknowledgements

This pattern was Tech Edited by Louise Plumridge, my thanks as always. Any errors that remain are my own. The PDF was formatted by Dara Adams

Copyrighty

This pattern, including the wording and the pictures, are my work and copyright. Please do not distribute them in any way except by using the link to this blog post. You may not copy in any way, including by making your own videos, if they are directly based on my work.
This blog is not intended for commercial use. You may sell finished items based on this pattern only if you have made them in your own home, with your own hands. However, selling your own makes from this pattern, especially for charity, is strongly encouraged. I would love to hear about your event, and how it went.