How to Crochet Moss Stitch – stitch guide and 2 Afghan Blocks
Moss stitch, also called Linen stitch or, less often, granite stitch is one of the true traditional crochet stitches, yet it still can have a very contemporary look. There is also a knit stitch called Moss Stitch, obviously that’s a different thing. The crochet moss stitch dates back almost as far as crochet itself. The stitch is used in the pattern ‘jacket for infant’ in the book ‘Priscilla Crochet Work’, published in 1891, although it is simply referred to as ‘single crochet chain 1’ stitch. If you know of an older use of this stitch, do let me know.
In this tutorial, discover how to crochet moss stitch in rows, in rounds and how to work shaping in moss stitch. Patterns are given for 2 Afghan squares, one in straight rows, and one in diagonal, ‘corner to corner’ rows.
This stitch pattern is available free to view here on my blog, buying on Ravelry, or buying on Etsy. The PDF download is available in both UK and US crochet terms. It is also available in standard 15 font or large print 22 font.
Features of Moss Stitch
The stitch alternates chain spaces and stitches. This gives it both drape and lightness from the chain spaces, combined with the appearance of a solid stitch. In addition, the way that the stitches of each row are worked into the chain spaces of the previous row means that it works incredibly well in 2 or more colours. The stripes look intriguing and complex, while actually being worked in simple rows or rounds.
This stitch is just as easy to work in rows or rounds. However, when working in rows, be aware that you may want to work your stripes with 2 rows of each colour, otherwise you will need to disconnect the yarn at the end of each row, and end up with endless tails to weave in. Alternatively you could turn the tails into a fringe and make them a feature.
When working in rounds, you can change colour every round if you wish.
Difficulty: Easy
Season: Winter. This stretchy, breathable, almost solid fabric is perfect for warmth.
Look: colourful
Use for: Blankets, cardigans, pullovers, scarves, shawls.
This stitch is ideal for baby blankets and baby wear. Many people nowadays fear holes in baby blankets in case tiny fingers get trapped. On the other hand, medical advice is still that baby blankets should be cellular (have little holes) so that baby can still breathe if it’s accidentally pulled over their face. This stitch is perfect as it creates a breathable, cellular fabric, but the gaps between stitches are nonetheless too small for even a preemie baby finger to get stuck in.
See it in a pattern:
The Alex Onesie will be available to purchase from my Ravelry shop from the 15th September 2025 onwards. It will also be available for free as a pdf download from the 15th to 17th September as part of the Sunflower Cottage Crochet Preemie Challenge.
The Alex Onesie pattern is crocheted entirely in moss stitch, and comes in sizes Premature baby (newborn, up to 6 months, 6-12 months) [1-2 years, 2-3 years].
Accessibility and crochet terms used:
This stitch pattern is written in both UK and US crochet terms, using a dyslexia friendly style. You can find out more about the accessibility features I use on this blog in my accessibility statement.
Before you start. Hints and tips.
Use a larger hook.
As with many crochet stitches, moss stitch works better with a bit more drape and looseness. The recommended needle size for the yarn in the samples is 3.5mm, and the recommended hook size is 3 – 3.5mm, however, I used a 4mm hook for the samples.
In the Alex Onesie pattern I used a 5mm hook for a yarn that recommended 4mm.
I have an average to slightly loose tension. If your gauge is tight, try going up the hook sizes even more.
Changing colours
If you are working in even numbered rows, you can run your unused colours up the sides, to avoid excessive yarn ends to sew in. Be sure to do so very loosely.
Finding the right insertion point.
On some rows, the double crochet of the previous row can stretch out and form a ‘v’. This can make it possible, when working quickly, to mis-read the stitch as a chain space and result in accidentally making an extra stitch.
If in any doubt, look 2 rows down, and place your stitch directly above the stitch 2 rows below.
Keeping your edges straight.
The first and last stitch are the most likely place to gain or lose a stitch, and have the stitch count go wrong. The edge chain 1 space can look tighter than the rest of the spaces, making it easy to miss. Alternatively, you might pick up the turning chain as a stitch. (These are both mistakes I have made).
Check your stitch count often (every 3 or 4 rows at least), especially at the beginning when you are getting into the rhythm. If your stitch count is wobbling, try putting a removable stitch marker in the first and last stitches. This should help you avoid these problems.
Moss stitch is easiest to work on an odd number of stitches. To work odd numbered rows, you can follow the line by line instructions below, or follow this chart which shows how to manage the start and end of each row:
If your pattern calls for an even number of stitches in moss stitch, you can make a small adjustment to how you work the first and last stitches, by following this chart instead:
To work Moss Stitch in rows
The sample shown uses 33 stitches of Hobbii baby cotton midi with a 4 mm hook for a 14 cm / 5 ½ inch square before the border, 15 cm / 6 inch square after the border.
Change colour as desired. The sample shows a repeated sequence of 2 rows of colour 1 (deep pink), 2 rows of colour 2 (light pint), 2 rows of colour 1 (deep pink), 2 rows of colour 3 (cream).
UK Terms
Set up: Chain any even number, which includes a turning chain of one.
Row 1: dc into 2nd ch from hook, and in each chain to end. Your stitch count will be 1 less than the chain, an odd number.
Row 2: [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, dc in last st, ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: dc [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for desired length, changing colour as desired.
Without border: Fasten off and disconnect yarn.
or
With border: do not turn.
Edging rnd 1: ch 2, dc in side of last st from previous row, dc in side of each stitch down the side to corner, [dc, ch 2, dc] in corner, dc into each ch along bottom, [dc, ch 2, dc] in corner, dc in side of each st to top, work in patt across top, ch 1 and do not turn.
Edging rnd 2: *patt to ch 2 corner space, [dc, ch 2, dc] in corner space, rep from * to end.
Fasten off and disconnect yarn.
To adjust size of the square, edging rnd 2 can be repeated as desired.
US Terms
Set up: Chain any even number, which includes a turning chain of one.
Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, and in each chain to end. Your stitch count will be 1 less than the chain, an odd number.
Row 2: [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, sc in last st, ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: sc [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, sc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for desired length, changing colour as desired.
Without border: Fasten off and disconnect yarn.
or
With border: do not turn.
Edging rnd 1: ch 2, sc in side of last st from previous row, sc in side of each stitch down the side to corner, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner, sc into each ch along bottom, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner, sc in side of each st to top, work in patt across top, ch 1 and do not turn.
Edging rnd 2: *patt to ch 2 corner space, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner space, rep from * to end.
Fasten off and disconnect yarn.
To adjust size of the square, edging rnd 2 can be repeated as desired.
To work Moss Stitch in rounds – UK terms
Moss stitch is wonderful to work in rounds. It makes great hats, mittens and pullovers worked in the round. The easiest way to do this is to work in a spiral. It also makes it easier to change colour every round, rather than every second round, which can look stunning.
To work in rounds:
Set up: Chain any desired even number, join with slip stitch to form a ring, mark beginning of round with stitch marker.
Round 1: in colour 1, dc to end, ch 1.
Round 2: in colour 2, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to marker, move marker up and change colour.
Repeat round 2 for desired length, changing colour as needed for your stripe pattern.
To work Moss Stitch in rounds – US terms
Moss stitch is wonderful to work in rounds. It makes great hats, mittens and pullovers worked in the round. The easiest way to do this is to work in a spiral. It also makes it easier to change colour every round, rather than every second round, which can look stunning.
To work in rounds:
Set up: Chain any desired even number, join with slip stitch to form a ring, mark beginning of round with stitch marker.
Round 1: in colour 1, sc to end, ch 1.
Round 2: in colour 2, [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to marker, move marker up and change colour.
Repeat round 2 for desired length, changing colour as needed for your stripe pattern.
To work a Diagonal Moss Stitch Afghan Square
Moss stitch is great for garments. The chain spaces add drape and lightness to the stitch which many garments need.
Therefore, you may need to create shaping in moss stitch, for example, for the crown of a hat, or raglan of a jumper. If you want to practice increasing and decreasing in this stitch to achieve shaping, this Afghan block could be a great way to swatch and practice moss stitch increases and decreases at the same time. Use as a block in a blanket, or as a cup coaster. The unusual diagonal stripes give it a very striking look.
Some would call this a ‘corner to corner’ or ‘C2C’ block, but I’m not 100% sure that’s correct. To my mind, C2C is a very specific stitch, and I would call this a diagonal stitch.
But what you call it isn’t that important. Enjoying the crochet is the only thing that really counts.
Diagonal moss stitch UK terms
Set up row 1: ch 4
Row 2: dc in 2nd from hook, and in each st to end, ch 1 and turn. (3 dc)
Row 3: (increase row) 2dc, dc, 2dc. (5 dc)
Row 4: (colour change row) join cc, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] twice, dc. (5 sts: 3 dc, 2 ch 1 sp)
Row 5: 2 dc, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, 2 dc in last st. (7 sts: 6 dc and 1 ch 1 sp)
Row 6: dc, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Row 7: 2 dc in first st, [ch 1, sk 1, dc] to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, 2 dc in last st, ch 1 and turn. (stitch count increased by 2)
Row 8: [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, dc.
Row 9: 2 dc in first st, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc, 2 dc in last stitch. (stitch count increased by 2)
Repeat previous 4 rows (rows 6, 7, 8 and 9) for pattern, ending on a row 8.
Center row: rep rnd 6
Dec row 1: dc 2 tog, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc 2 tog. (stitch count reduced by 2)
Dec row 2: [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, dc.
Dec row 3: dc 2 tog, ch 1, sk 1, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc 2 tog. (stitch count reduced by 2)
Dec row 4: dc, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc to end.
Rep dec rows 1 – 4 until 3 sts remain. Fasten off and disconnect yarn, or work a border edging as for the straight rows square above.
Diagonal moss stitch US terms
Set up row 1: ch 4
Row 2: sc in 2nd from hook, and in each st to end, ch 1 and turn. (3 dc)
Row 3: (increase row) 2sc, sc, 2sc. (5 dc)
Row 4: (colour change row) join cc, [sc, ch 1, sk 1] twice, sc. (5 sts: 3 sc, 2 ch 1 sp)
Row 5: 2 sc, sc, ch 1, sk 1, sc, 2 sc in last st. (7 sts: 6 sc and 1 ch 1 sp)
Row 6: sc, [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, sc to end, ch 1 and turn.
Row 7: 2 sc in first st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc] to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, 2 sc in last st, ch 1 and turn. (stitch count increased by 2)
Row 8: [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, sc.
Row 9: 2 sc in first st, [sc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, sc, 2 sc in last stitch. (stitch count increased by 2)
Repeat previous 4 rows (rows 6, 7, 8 and 9) for pattern, ending on a row 8.
Center row: rep rnd 6
Dec row 1: dc 2 tog, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc 2 tog. (stitch count reduced by 2)
Dec row 2: [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last st, dc.
Dec row 3: dc 2 tog, ch 1, sk 1, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc 2 tog. (stitch count reduced by 2)
Dec row 4: dc, [dc, ch 1, sk 1] to last 2 sts, dc to end.
Rep dec rows 1 – 4 until 3 sts remain. Fasten off and disconnect yarn, or work a border edging as for the straight rows square above.
Congratulations on Finishing
Congratulations on finishing the Moss stitch crochet tutorial. What did you crochet in this stitch? I would love to see. Why not post to instagram, and tag @TheFairythorn, or create a Ravelry project page.
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Copyright
This tutorial, including the wording and the pictures, are my work and copyright. The stitch demonstrated is a traditional stitch which anyone is free to use or adapt as they see fit. The wording, stitch charts and images in this blog however, are my own work.
Please do not distribute them in any way except by using the link to this blog post. You may not copy in any way, including by making your own videos, if they are directly based on my work.
This blog is not intended for commercial use. You may sell finished items based on this tutorial only if you have made them in your own home, with your own hands. However, selling your own makes from this pattern, especially for charity, such as at a school fair to raise money for your local school, is strongly encouraged. I would love to hear about your event, and how it went.